Roksanda treats fashion like art, and each piece is an installation or emotion that makes up an exhibition that transcends time much more than simply creating a collection. The architect-trained fashion designer is herself a beautiful muse you could imagine Picasso obsessively painting from every angle.
To celebrate her milestone 10th anniversary at London Fashion, Roksanda looked to the work of sculptor Pascal Pierme and the light touch of Ikebana flower arranging and re-imagined it through her own impeccable vision. The models were her flowers, the clothes her sculptural signature. Set under high-vaulted deco arches, modernist curves and cubes of blush pink, MDF installations distorted the models’ walk around the venue, and brought the audience closer to the pieces. Sleeves were gathered like sweet wrappers, drop shoulders were full and softly ruffled, and pantsuits placed the ruffled waistband so high they became jumpsuits. Colours of ice blue, nude, acidic yellow and burnt orange are signatures of Roksanda, but this season she outlined and punctuated with black, and mixed block colour cutouts, panelling and applied architectural precision with their placement.
Black opera coats were worn with ruffle sleeve, or featured cutaway backs as she mixed the beautiful conceit of past grandeur with a light contemporary touch. Crisp black tuxedo jackets, high frayed chiffon collars and ethereal slip dresses broken up with block colour contrasted with a dress of bold yellow silk and stripes of ribbon or monochrome layering that seemed to curve like the rhythm of the music. A strapless black ruffle with neon pink trim peeking through led to circular cuts and soft ruffle circles similar to a Delaunay painting, and closed with skilled frayed chiffon squares layered together to look like delicate angel feathers, in canary yellow, blush pink and powder blue slip dresses that were as on-trend as they were unique.