The appeal of Roland Mouret to the elegant woman is undeniable, and lasting. One glance at his front row, filled with women clad in his designs, is enough to confirm this.
Of late, Mouret has been pushing a particular kind of look: body-conscious and graphic, yet grappling with the conceptual in its origami-like constructions. And this makes his clothes as interesting from the front as they are from other perspectives.
Building in three dimensions requires an eye for precision and Mouret delivers this in the razor-sharpness of his folds and turns. It was perhaps not as coldly surgical. Also, it was perhaps a touch less constricting. Flaps and vents angled away from the body, not towards it, and there were expanses of unrestrained flesh. Long fabric fringes were made to just flit around the model's legs. The geometric adornments were given a slightly softer edge when made of feathers - those too were not so controlled, and applied on the front of trousers.
Mouret's intention might have been to conjure up tribal visions, and in this he succeeded. Zips ran along the edge of armholes, half practical consideration, half adornment. Geometric designs gave his thick wools a softened blanket feel. But his tribe is clearly still the city-slick and body-confident; even if she walks in sensibly flat low boots, she's out for conquest. So is Mouret. In giving a little leeway, he makes his designs all the more inviting.
One can wonder how those form fitting silhouettes could appeal to those who don't ascribe to Mouret already; but truth is, there was plenty more to look at.
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