Roland Mouret is a man to whom women turn when they need to clothe themselves in worldly words: confidence, elegance, free-spirit, desire. But, as he remarked backstage, this thought took particular poignancy in the light of last January's tragic events in Paris. Like artists, fashion designers are sponges of zeitgeist, absorbing it before restituting it in their chosen media. Roland Mouret's is fabric and this architect of cloth delivered a collection ― although probably already close to completion when it all went down ― that spoke of expressed freedom. "The collection is for a woman who uses words, both for their poetry and their violence," explained Mouret backstage. "And in music, I am attracted to people who don't hesitate to open their mouths."
Like her creator, the Mouret woman, particularly this Fall, is a nomad. Notions of temperature fluctuate as much as the timezone she's in. So it follows that her wardrobe transforms accordingly. His dresses are exciting enough, but his outerwear can make any stylish woman's temperature peak. A Mouret outfit says impeccable in design and visual impact. Attuned as he is to the big picture of being a fashion brand, that flows all the way through to the finishing touches. The artisanal collage of tweeds and thicker weights looked as effortless as the ones with gauze-thin material. One coat looked at once thin enough to bridge the mid-season divide, or be layered with one of his jackets. Left unbelted, it was kinder to those without a hardbody. In fact, the very reason that women flock to Mouret is because his mastery of fluidity and structure magics away the unsightly.
As always, construction was sensational. Like few others, the Frenchman achieved fame through one dress, and created a signature immediately recognizable therein forward. This confluent point of influences ― quilting on leather, patchworking, basket weaving, knitwear ― came together because Mouret's entire reflection is not on what to do with his season, but on how to translate it into a garment intrinsically "Roland Mouret." In fact, it might well be the only important question remaining.