The Galaxy turns 10 this year. In October 2005, Roland Mouret created the dress that went supernova, defining a silhouette that had celebrities and the girl next door clamoring for its perfectly proportioned hourglass and worked equally well on the willowy or womanly. Without any fashion training, the French designer had draped and folded purely on instinct. Its nip and cinch durably shaped what women wanted, including its full length back zip that allowed for an immediate oh-la-la dress drop, and in retail terms, hit the G-spot.
But despite its monumental success, and this year's limited edition Galaxy 10 capsule (available online immediately after the show and at 5 select retailers around the world), that is not all Mouret wants to go down in fashion history for. For the rest, he forged ahead with yet another collection of feminine delights that looked back to another ten year-old, the designer himself as he discovered Seventies fashion through the lens of "Aujourd'hui Madame," a cult French program.
He worked around the color palette and modern versions of the period's floral motifs, blended with the tailoring that made the Galaxy an indisputable hit. More often than not, the garments felt nonchalant in their elegance, like the fluid front dress that held beautifully thanks to its fitted back. You couldn't help but wonder how long it had taken Mouret to construct silhouettes that felt so free. Separates played on sensual cut-outs, particularly along the neckline. Raffia and raw hems, pleats perforated with flowers, animal spots and dots, and textural contrasts played beautifully. Most came accompanied by earrings designed by Marie Beltrami, a long metal strand piercing a sphere of rose quartz and pearls.
The finale was a parade of Galaxies in shades of the summer, plus white and navy. But beyond the heartwarming reception they received, their contrast with the collection reminded that beyond that one Big Bang, Roland Mouret had developed an entire universe, one that keeps turning season after season.