Continuing the whole "presentation as a fashion show" inclination that the menswear houses seemed to have latched onto with gusto this week, Japanese designer Chitose Abe showed her spring/summer 2015 Sacai collection in back to back mini catwalk shows designed for a more intimate appraisal of her eclectic esthetic.
This time instead of repurposing or resizing fashion staples the designer explored the idea of overlay. How the juxtaposition of different fabrics, prints or shapes would come together to make something greater and richer then the sum of its parts.
On the catwalk the models zig zagged their way through a maze of transparent pillars that lit up in different cadences depending on which color block series of looks were on display. The beating lights echoing off the stripes of a boxy multi pocketed jacket, worn over a knee grazing cotton shirt or fully ablaze next to a Henri Matisse like camouflage print short sleeve sweatshirt and green city shorts. Even the stacking of a shirt, blazer, quilted vest, and blouson jacket was able to circumvent frumpy or overwrought.
What makes this designer so exceptionally good, is how she is able to control the myriad of "moving parts" in each of her ensembles. And there is also a certain comfort in the knowledge that pulled apart each layer of every look would work just as well all on its own.