For her first full blown Menswear runway show in Paris, designer Chitose Abe kept her Sacai man as eclectically handsome as he ever was. She stayed true to brand’s ethos, creating hybrid ensembles that morph together wardrobe staples. This was so deftly done that it was impossible know where a shirt ended and a jacket began or if a pair of pants was a cargo, tuxedo, or jeans. On the Abe catwalk they could easily be all three.
Shown in the round, with bedhead models walking in circles around each other under the cupola of the Bourse de Commerce, the designer suggested that this collection was inspired by Paradise Garage – a night club in New York City cira the 1970s. The reason being that the club was a place where people of all walks of life came together to let loose.
But rather than looking urban-based, this collection had a winter surfer vibe humming through its core. This sensation was certainly reinforced by the fabric flower lei ringing the models' necks. But also in the use of Baja plaids on shorts and jackets or trousers that came printed with broad fronds. Also, the frayed details on shirt cuffs and undulating tone on tone stripes that swam down pant legs gave off a sea side casual energy.
The wintery element of the show was generated by the dark color palette of red, green, and navy that, along with some sandy hued fabrics, made it easy to imagine the models sitting around a bonfire on the beach – a beer in their hand, a Wahine at their side, and their board at their back.
It's an enticing image that should provoke more than a few buyers to try and ride the Sacai wave next summer.