Sacai Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris

If there is one essential typographic element to describe Chitose Abe’s body of work, it is undoubtedly the slash. She’s not reinventing or adapting classics, she’s remixing them with that typically Gen Y Slasher hand. This was on the same page as Junya Watanabe’s collection shown earlier in the week. If his woman was a punk-rocker, here was her sophisticated sister.

Conceptual meets wearable seamlessly. To sum it up, Abe creates contradictions that work, like an inside-out sports coat, a volumetric teddy composed from feminine looking orange lace, spliced with sporty green checks. Lace peeking out from a puffer jacket, silk inserts in the pleating of a canvas skirt, amplified their already full volume in movement. It is not so much about a theme as it is about what materials she has decided to play with for the season. Velvet and trench coat canvas together created a visual hourglass figure that is belied by the girth of the coat itself. Even if some of the pieces were a little too busy, the three dimensional aspect of many of her pieces make for conversation starters.

Backstage, after the show had ended on Imagination’s “Just an illusion,” a supercharged Abe flashed megawatt smiles all around, and explained via a translator what she was all about “something that looks very simple, but is combined with something else.” Perhaps that is just talent.

- Lily Templeton

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