It has been happening throughout the entire Paris Fashion Week: sightings of Sacai. A green military and navy lace dress here, a leather perfecto melded with a cable knit sweater there; the taste makers and trend setters have all become devotees of the house known for its hybrid designs.
And for next season there is little doubt that they will look no further than designer Chitose Abe's fall/winter 2015 offering when it comes to their new statement coat. The collection's lineup was bursting, literally, with covetable oversized outerwear.
The car coats that opened the show had an articulated look thanks to the sectional way in which Abe left room for the underlying quilted fabric to come to the fore. Giant tuffs of fur exploded out of collars and cuffs and hemlines of M65 parkas and those hallmark perfecto cable knit sweater jackets returned this time in more roomy proportions.
An interesting new addition was the fluo-trimmed Baja hoodie-inspired designs which added a bit of West Coast cool into the mix when they stuck closer to their original incarnation. When they were reworked into hunching carapace-like fur options, the effect was less enthralling. While one voluminous coat that finished in strands of braided macramé took the oversized style to an extreme place.
While the outerwear was the main story of this collection, Abe also made time for quite a few clever garments to wear inside those cocooning coats. Top on the list were the two dresses crafted from a mash-up of chevron and micro-square-patterned silks, and two tie-me-up, tie-me-down Fortuny pleated dresses wrapped in bondage passementerie braids.
It might already feel like spring has arrived in Paris. But as the saying goes, "Winter is coming,” so save up for a Sacai coat.