Designer Hedi Slimane raised the bar, or should I say raised the catwalk, with his fall/winter 2015 collection for Saint Laurent. His mechanical and movable set pieces for each of his ready-to-wear shows have, in just a handful of seasons, become legendary. Always the same and yet different, the sets echo the collections they showcase.
Slimane has found his sartorial nerve center, and he is draining it of every last ounce of energy. It’s the bad girl, or boy. The rocker who might just have a heart of gold and a winning smile if they ever got to eat a real home-cooked meal. The rebel who wears clothing that looks as if it might have been worn in a John Hughes film like “Some Kind of Wonderful” or “Pretty in Pink.” A disgruntled youth who only needs that perfect someone to see through their harsh eye makeup, torn-to-shreds fishnet stockings and statement-making clothes to find the misunderstood girl looking for answers to all life’s big questions.
But until that day comes, she has got a lot of trails to blaze and candles to burn at both ends. She will do that wearing cropped perfecto jackets over puffed out mini-crini prom dresses. Alternatively, she could go with a see-through or cut-away top that make investing in a Saint Laurent jacket a must for modesty’s sake. Or maybe she'll just don a super slim MIB suit.
When the at-eye-level catwalk finally came down to earth so that the Saint Laurent models could walk the runway on the same plane as the audience, the height adjustment didn’t fool anyone. Not for one moment did these girls see anyone else as their equals. Wasn’t it Groucho Marx who said, “I refuse to join any club that would have me as a member”?