Those shoes. A “YSL” heel on the sexiest of black stilettos. How long do we expect the waiting list to be for those? Who will be wearing them first? Everyone was raving about these post-show, one which obviously has been the first talking point of Paris (there are quite a lot more left to go with Dior and Valentino’s first outings since their designer swaps). Vaccarello went leather and he went black; he went lace and he went short. It was tight and the point was sassy and sexy. [CONTINUE READING...]
"I’m a party girl, funny girl. What did you do last night?”
A few hours before the show, a video teaser appeared featuring hypnotic words and black and white images of Anja Rubik on the Seine. The evocative images, shot by Inez & Vinoodh, were a taster of what was to come at one of the most hotly anticipated shows of Paris Fashion Week. Anthony Vaccarello's debut at Saint Laurent, taking over the not-so-simple role at the helm after the departure of Hedi Slimane.
The video's arresting visual language was a Cassandra-esque warning, symbolising what was to come. Further Cassandre signs appeared quite literally, in the form of the iconic YSL logo in neon lights, on the side of the industrial location where the show took place. A hive of activity, the catwalk reflected in the mirrored ceiling. A mood reminiscent of the hedonistic spirit of Yves, with Vaccarello's modern rock edge. A nod to Pierre Bergé and the foundations of the brand. Defining elements of the legendary fashion house left their mark. Brazen power dresses from the 80's, shoulders that were the height of seduction, architectural shapes suspended in lace. Mini dresses in lace and suede. Sweetheart necklines on tops. Recalling the house's celebrated tuxedos but with a feminine twist, transformed into waistcoats, razor sharp asymmetrical cuts. Flashes of gold accompanied fabrics in the style of the Ballet Russes. Speckled patterns blossomed on sleeves - a detail that gave the look an overall appearance of volume. Next to the court shoes with a YSL shaped heel, just like some of the earrings, came flats worn with socks woven with crystals. An urban touch in a world of couture, right through to the scandalous nude look. Transparencies were even seen on men, one single man made an appearance in the middle of the show, alone in the middle of a pride of lionesses. Dangerous ladies with a heart shaped crystal covering one nipple.
by Stefano Roncato - MFFashion