Salvatore Ferragamo Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Milan
To a toe tapping tribal beat, designer Massimiliano Giornetti sent out one of the strongest Salvatore Ferragamo menswear collection in recent memory.
First, let's talk about the choice to go with a giraffe print as the dominate graphic element in the show. Animal prints always need to be handled with kid gloves if they are ever going to succeed and within this particular sub category of print, the giraffe motif is one of the most challenging. Giornetti didn't even take the relatively easy option of just using the base pattern, he also overlaid it with miniature giraffe illustrations. It was everywhere. On shirts, the lining and cuffs of jackets and even neckties. The print was clearly inspired by traditional African fabrics. But it was the designer's atypical scorched earth color palette of browns - from sand and beige to chocolate and rust- and sky blues that made the pattern work.
Besides the giraffe pieces, which will certainly sell like hot cakes when they hit the stores, the other attractive sartorial exploration was how the designer wove elements of loungewear into his relaxed collection. Blouson tops brought to mind a man's pajamas, easy cut shorts had a casual boxer vibe about them. While belted coats and jackets hinted at dressing robes or lounge jackets.
But again the sophisticated melange of hues on textual fabrics imbued the garments with a crucial touch of gravitas. For example, the way Giornetti gave the impression that a color had been worn away to expose an underlying shade on a pair of pleat front trousers or how he faded "just so" a checked jacket, were two masterfully executed ideas.
It was a collection that was both restrained and relaxed, casual and conceptual. And it was one of this week's winners.