Summer Nostalgia at Davi Paris Spring / Summer 2021
After working for over 20 years at Ter et Bantine, Dirk Bikkembergs, Mila Schon and Giorgio Armani and Gucci, Italian designer Davide Marello finally displayed his own creative vision in 2018, launching Davi Paris at Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
With his subtle, minimal touch, Marello blends elegant Parisian flair with a more informal styling, adding chromatic shades and flowery elements in all his collections. The idea behind his brand is to create easy-to-wear garments that embrace personality and freedom. His artistic spirit is often identified through his use of prints and fabrics, which add movement and lightness to originally harsh masculine silhouettes.
His Spring / Summer 2021 Menswear Collection – exhibited through a
two-minutes long video called ‘The Last Day of Summer’ and directed by
photographer duo Bruno and Nicoletta VanMossevelde – is an authentic
representation of Marello’s identity.
A melancholic mood is outlined since the very first seconds of the footage, capturing a group of youngsters walking through a desolated, windy seashore. Floral shirts from the faded nuances matched with equally patterned scarfs and long leather chokers, are left unbuttoned and creased as to symbolise juvenile carefreeness. Marello’s signature prints are also stamped on shorts, paired with colour-block pullovers and bucket hats from the earthy tones, reinforcing that 70s style that is often perceived in his creations.
Despite the designer’s tailoring expertise, the only sartorial piece is a
black oversize suit with flowers embroidery showcased at the end of the video –
demonstrating Marello’s refusal to be clustered in just one specific style.
With a collection that embodies a sort of nostalgia for a time that has gone, the unpolished landscape plays as a mirror of humans’ emotions and fears, turning Davi’s SS21 presentation into a contemporary state of mind.
Nature Awakening in Aldo Maria Camillo’s ‘Portrait of A Man’
A notable figure of the fashion industry – from being nominated as Cerruti’s Creative Director to supporting Haider Ackermann during his short career at Berluti, no wonder Aldo Maria Camillo has already achieved media’s recognition after only debuting with his own collection last year at Pitti Uomo.
Camillo has always produced his collections in the best Italian factories, solemnly using made-in-Italy cotton and UK-based wool, merging sophisticated fabrics with primitive, raw materials. Although his shapes and prints are sober, he enhances classic tailoring through bold colour palettes – a technique the Italian designer strategically uses to blend casual fits with sartorial flair.
In ‘Portrait of a Man’, Aldo Maria Camillo showcases his Spring / Summer 2021 in a black and white short video filmed by photographer and artist Sara Imloul. The atmosphere is dark and gloomy, while images of bushy trees and trembling water are hazy until they reveal a masculine figure wearing a sheer shirt layered on a structured suit.
As one of the most recurrent themes of this year’s Fashion Week, nature is the protagonist – being depicted as a quiet, untouched environment, populated by swans, horses and flies. The outdoor neatness contrasts the house’s interior, which is messy, almost dirty, a sign of a place that has not been taken care of. The intervention of a feminine background voice flips the situation as the same man is invited to open his eyes. He is apathetic, disappointed, immersed in his own thoughts but the voiceover encourages him to react to the beauty of his surroundings – because “it is not too late” to fix what has broken him.
The power of light, able to infiltrate into cracks is an analogy of humans’ ability to survive any obstacle they are put in front of. Camillo indirectly stimulates his audience to take it easy, look back and allow lightning to get in as “no man is blind”.
Despite the very few outfits displayed, the three minutes long video is still able to illustrate the designer’s edgy, monochromatic style – giving proof of his unique and qualitative sartorial expertise.
Utilitarian romance at Juun J
“Walking on the street, isn’t that the real runway?” asked himself Korean
designer Juun J this season.
Case of point, the designer transported his audience through the streets of his hometown this season via his film by Hong Jang Hyun and a special soundtrack by Owen Pallett.
“We are living in an era of Covid-19. Our travel and movements are restricted. Our runway shows have been cancelled. When I considered how to present my SS21 collection I found myself thinking of my hometown, the city that inspires me. For me, Seoul has always been to close and familiar to notice, but it has always been on my mind,” explained the designer in an official statement released to the press.
“There is no better place to film the collection. My favourite crowded streets, technological, but holding a traditional beauty. My muses are walking powerfully, wearing soft military looks with a touch of brightness, re-imagined tailoring, styled without boundaries.” the designer continued.
Utilitarian classics were the focus for Juun J’s collection this season. Focusing on cargo pockets and military silhouettes, models marched over deserted bridges wearing architectural knitted tops, while trousers were embellished with layers of pockets, flapping gently in the wind. Airy pleated dresses added a touch of romance to the slick, street-focused vibe of the whole presentation while cubic pouches were worn as armbands or strapped on the models’ hips almost like fanny packs.
French designer Isabel Marant has always been a pro at providing the wardrobe of the effortlessly chic. From her classic ecru sweaters to her timeless 80s-inspired silhouettes, the vibe is consistent from season to season.
This summer, Marant showcased her mens collection via a video filmed at the National Dance Center of Pantin. Escapism, literally, was key as her models, pranced and danced around the concrete passageways of the Canal de L’Ourcq. There was little if no focus on tailoring – but rather more on creating a more relaxed offering.
Many designers have shown this season their craving for dancing – Marant demonstrated this through the raw energy exuded by the looks – energy which came about through flexible silhouettes and materials which eased movements, such as nylon leggings, windbreakers and longer parka overcoats.
The palette varied ranging from a series of looks in pastel pinks, greys and Marant’s classic greige. Cherry hues and bolder blues adorned sportswear pieces, mixed with ikat pieces. Bolder prints came in the form of energetic zig-zag prints and patterns.
Balmain celebrated 75 years of elegance
During the quarantine, Olivier Rousteing took it to Instagram to share his inspirations and make it into his runway. A few days ago, the designer took it to the Seine to celebrate 75 years of refinement, craftsmanship, refinement and elegance of the house of Balmain alongside thousands of fellow Parisians.
Accompanied by a performance by French musician and song-writer Yseult,
Rousteing represented a series of iconic looks from the House of Balmain,
ranging from his more modern creations to a series of dresses created by the
iconic couturier from 1946 to 1989.
The two-hour performance was also live-streamed on Tik Tok – the first experiment of the French house with this particular video platform. Although the experiment wasn’t as successful as it could’ve as the live-stream was cut short after a mere 20 minutes, on a positive note, 20,000 locals caught at least some part of the spectacle, in a sense mimicking what could’ve been a real-life presentation.
In his show notes, the designer referenced a line from Joni Mitchell’s Big Yellow Taxi: “You don’t know what you’ve got ’til it’s gone,” evidently expressing a longing for his friends, family, community – positively hoping for a better future.