Ever since it was resurrected back from the fashion dead four years ago, modern-day Schiaparelli has found its voice in a contemporary take on the surreal, which was the calling card of its namesake designer back in the day. It has worked sometimes better than others, it felt much too twee on occasion and then hit the nail on the head. [CONTINUE READING...]
For the first time, the doors of the atelier in Place Vendôme open to welcome guests to the spring/summer 2017 show. Once upon a time these very same doors opened to reveal the world of Elsa Schiaparelli. For his fourth season at the helm of the maison Bertrand Guyon wanted to explore the more private side of the designer, her more intimate moments. Starting with a photo, “A personal picture of Elsa, a portrait taken in her Parisian apartment wearing a vintage kimono….it was her elegant outfit for around the house,” the designer explained to MFF, the creative mind behind the Schiaparelli brand that is now owned by Diego Della Valle. His aesthetic voyage started in a faraway place shrouded in mystery, a place that combines Japanese simplicity with the evocative ornate style symbolic of Chinese design. All remixed with iconic symbols from the house: from lobsters to padlocks, from surrealist faces to fantastical animals, all in an eye-catching merry-go-round. The pretty escorts with delicate faces and plaited hair tied with pieces of midnight voile. Wearing simple silhouettes, almost minimalist, vaguely 70’s. In contrast to the decorative, surreal music. There were hands in broderie forming the shape of a heart and faces engraved into the back of a virginal cape. Eyes with enormous eyelashes winked on a cropped jacket followed by pleats in silk, brocade and precious chinoise, istoriato furs like a Japanese book of fairytales, blooming flowers and fluttering puzzles that mimicked elegant carps. Overall there was a delicate sensual mood, like those antique portraits of geishas that filled the moodboard. The same ones who appeared in ball gowns with a light hearted opulence, worn with small kimonos that had been reimagined and preciously embellished.
By Giampietro Baudo - MFF Magazine for Fashion