See It Buy It Style It: Patrícia Viera at SPFW

Just as talk of see-now-buy-now was rife across the four international fashion capitals this past month, it spread like wild fire onto São Paulo this season, a “season-less” one at that and the 42nd edition of the South American style showcase, where a host of brands were adopting the much hyped format: Animale, Lilly Sarti, Iodice Osklen, LAB, À La Garçonne, Lolitta, and Patrícia Viera being just a few. The idea is, however, something the latter – Patrícia Viera, one of SPFW’s stalwart names – has actually quietly been putting to good use for some time now. Seen it, already bought it, in fact. 

 

 Patricia Viera N42 Fashion show, Sao Paulo Fashion Week (Courtesy of PR)

 

“If my client can buy anything, I have to have it quickly,” noted the designer backstage on the importance of being able to react and cater to consumer needs. “We started doing this 10 seasons ago,” continued her daughter Andrea, with whom she works. “But then it became huge – the internet and social media.” It was one element of their business practice.

But before all of the hype happened it made sense for the brand, its calling card being leather. A timeless classic. And one that Viera remasters each season in alchemic fashion. “It lasts forever; your daughter will wear it,” reasoned Andrea, herself dressed in one of their fitted-bodice and flared-skirt dresses. 

 

 Patricia Viera N42 Fashion show, Sao Paulo Fashion Week (Courtesy of PR)

 

That’s true enough, but with temperatures reaching 32 degrees in São Paulo this week, one could argue leather’s ability in being quite so timeless – especially here. It doesn’t immediately stand out as the go-to option to wear. But Viera will soon set you straight on that.  

“I’m not from Brazil; I’m from the world,” she pointed out. And that’s a fair point. And another overriding factor contributing to the rise of see-now-buy-now. Because in an internet age, time zones and temperatures don’t really exist. Ok, they do but it’s summer and winter somewhere all the time, any time. Catering to just one of those prevents you from being global and cuts out a whole lot of customers. And that’s become the name of the game. “My first client was Barneys, my second Colette, my third Joyce,” elaborated Viera of how her global stance came to be. 

It’s certainly one that extended to her inspiration this season, too – though one that somewhat ironically began by rejecting all of the above notions of fast fashion, here, now, already. Heading off on an Easter Island retreat where Wifi was low-fi if at all and being in the moment, remembering that such a thing can even exist, was de rigueur. 

 

 Patricia Viera N42 Fashion show, Sao Paulo Fashion Week (Courtesy of PR)

 

“We work in fashion, we always talk about tomorrow; you need to feel,” pointed out Viera. “I always have to go somewhere outside of fashion to feel. Then the creativity comes. If you’re in a real moment you don’t have to think about tomorrow. Every time I’m away I say to Andrea: ‘I’m so pleased to be your mother, I love you very much.'"

From this came the designer’s signature punctuated and perforated leathers in shades of clay and stone – all pale and pastel – and with shine in place of last season’s florals for nods to mosaic work, while geographic landscapes were captured in laser cuts. Silhouettes were svelte as ever. “It’s very sexy and very feminine," the pair chimed together. “It’s super Fifties. We have waists, we’re Brazilian!” Global in reach, Brazilian at heart.

 

Read our latest fashion features and trend reports in NOWMagazine.

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