At the end of Songzio, it was a little difficult to determine whether we'd been truly charmed, or left on the fence. Where last season he'd explored the patterns of wood, this season saw his roving eye moving towards the urban sprawls in search for more verticality. His great eye for tailoring served him well in constructing jackets and trousers for his man, in fabrics that suited the warmer months. Sheer fabrics gave an impression of frailty counter-balanced by the precision in cuts. Full of promise were the printed silks, a pointillism of sorts that fell in step both with his search for pure lines and the organic nature of his wooden inspiration. Less attractive were the volumes of his bottoms, where wide legged shorts became almost skirt-like due to their lack of contrast in texture or color.
But it was clean and continued to reap the rewards of Songzio's interest in textures as well as design. More than ever, his muse seems to have taken a monastic route. The boxiness of his patterns was belied by the fabric choices, giving movement to the garments. Thrown in were a few standouts, like the raw edged cream jacket that deserved more than a second look. At any cost, the way forward has been found. Although it didn't feel entirely modern in its approach, this collection captured the season's undercurrent. As with many designers this season, man's vulnerability is highlighted subtly, a soft center encased in layers of gauzy material.