Speeding Towards the End of MFW: Tommy Hilfiger & Co
With all the over-production of a Philipp Plein show, Tommy Hilfiger brought his TommyNow tour to Milan this season – by which we mean Spring/Summer 2018. Yep, that’s right; he’s one of the only designers to have stuck to the somewhat tumultuous see-now-buy-now model that spawned two years ago and which has been disbanded, subsequently, by many. Only this was also in collaboration with Gigi Hadid, the model, not the designer.
TOMMY HILFIGER FW18 show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
Dubbed the TommyNow experiential runway event, the brand sped into the end of Milan Fashion Week with a Formula One theme, which came by way of said cars on the runway and accompanying people attending them during the show. By now, you’ll know all of this, have seen the collection, with the stellar list of models showing off menswear and womenswear of sporty-summer vibes, because one of the primary purposes behind this manoeuvre was to tap into social media spikes, as Dolce did earlier in the day with its drone tactics.
As such one can’t help but feel Milan seems to be the place for this? And why is that? It does keep happening…
In this instance, Hilfiger had already done London; the brand’s hometown is New York; and Los Angeles, perhaps now the unofficial fifth fashion capital, had also got a look in. Could Paris be next? The city of light does seem flexible in its schedule of late, new US additions in the shape of Proenza Schouler, Rodarte, and Altuzarra among those who have decamped most recently.
PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI FW18 show in Milan. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
Meanwhile, Milan Fashion Week edged towards it end not just with this fast-car fantasy but with offerings from Emporio Armani, a stalwart; Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini; and Au Jour Le Jour. Of the former, Lorenzo Serafini really knows what he’s doing here: transforming a label that went from being a bizarre after-thought of a collection to one in its own right that you want to wear. One part meringue prom to one part the Milanese Isabel Marant to cosy Coach, it totally worked and the aforementioned references are merely to contextualise, not insinuate. Everything came rosette-studded as though everything was a celebratory cake, but not overdone with it; prairie dresses were in the majority as were warm winter onesies.
EMPORIO ARMANI FW18 show in Milan. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.
At Emporio Armani it was all about the night-time in the daytime and, as such, there was a much younger approach to this collection, which can so often fall into the trap of just being a slightly watered-down version of Giorgio. The shoes were especially great, and there was an overall party vibe to pieces that took on a largely green colour palette. It was almost as though the brand had switched sartorial mind places with Au Jour Le Jour, one of the younger brands on the schedule – for they went with grown-up fuzzy coats along the Erdem or Miu Miu lines with jewelled brooches and big collars, prim and pointy shoes with diamante running across the foot. The coats were certainly the strongest element of this collection, which definitely had a regal feel to it for pearls and ornate embellishment.
AU JOUR LE JOUR FW18 show in Milan. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.
Footnote: Marilyn didn’t make another appearance. And according to the rulebook, that means she’s not yet a trend, this season…
See TOMMY HILFIGER's full FW18 collection here.
See PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI's full FW18 collection here.
See EMPORIO ARMANI's full FW18 collection here.
See AU JOUR LE JOUR's full FW18 collection here.