Sportmax Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Milan

There was a slightly cold minimalism to these looks, reminiscent of the work of Celine’s Phoebe Philo, softened up by weaves, occasional pops of color – purple, blue, mustard –and rounded volumes.

Expanding on the house's outerwear heritage, classic styles were tinkered with. Two coats – in deep purple felt and flecked gray wool with a contrast collar and sleeves in black – sported asymmetric storm flaps, for example. There was also a full-length take on the biker jacket, with a body of uninterrupted quilted black leather and subtle hardware on the sleeves, which was cool.

Head designer Grazia Malagoli rolled out another range of textural innovations that drew the eye. There were different gauges of knit juxtaposed on monochrome sweaters. Navy suede and astrakhan happily coexisted on a skirt suit with an A-line cut. Dynamizing a clean black collarless cashmere coat with rounded volumes were horizontal stripes of eelskin, while tone-on-tone bands of ponyskin softly gleamed from a navy cashmere coat. But best of all were the furs with 3D cubic grids embossed in their pelts.

A dress and coat in glistening white textured tweed with a scratchy purple or mustard and the black print added a sweet note that could have been developed further. Instead there was no rocking the boat for the brand this season, which continues to tap into its modernist streak.

- Katya Foreman

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