NEW-YORK, as the first week on the month-long fashion calendar, was subsequently the first to kick into action with its versions of See Now, Buy Now – Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, and Tom Ford were among those who partook. Social media seemed to usurp the clothes, in fact, as trends. But when there were those to contend with, they came as your standard summer fare – romance and stripes, neon brights and art references. The standout of course was the hoodie – NYFW’s must-have item (why ever could that be?!). While Marc Jacobs brought a brilliant dress-up craziness and kook to end the week and take us appropriately on to the ever eclectic UK fashion capital.
Marc Jacobs Fashion Show Ready-to-wear Collection Spring Summer 2017 New-York
LONDON – with an unanswered, upsetting, and complicated Brexit still in the air – turned out to be something of a pretty season (surprisingly), Elizabethan frills and flounces at the forefront of many a designer's mind; it was also a season of anniversaries – can you believe that Christopher Kane is now a decade old? Ditto House of Holland and any other label that cropped up in the wake of Nu Rave (so a lot of the schedule, in fact!). It was also a season that saw a handful of exciting new names to keep an eye on – Paula Knorr and Roberta Einer among them – while new establishment names such as Mary Katrantzou and the aforementioned Kane cemented their star status with collections that pulled together everything we’ve seen of them in the past ten years and refined it. Let’s not forget that this was also the season of See Now, Buy Now! Hugely heralded, it perhaps made less of an impact in reality than it did in the lead up – but then we’ll know more next season when presumably sales results are in. Burberry was leader of the pack.
Mary Katrantzou Fashion Show Ready-to-wear Collection Spring Summer 2017 Londres
MILAN this season felt the Vetements effect all over. We had deconstructed shirts and apron hybrids making an appearance in some variation or guise at more or less every show, and the same with the hoodie. There was no getting away from the Parisian-based house’s presence. But of course, Milan is home to the other big fashion movement right now: Gucci. It was bigger and better than before, more ornate and colourful and layered and magpie and championed a key trend of the capital, and later fashion week in general – the waist. Show yours off with a belt-bag, that’s what everyone (in the know) will be doing next summer. Hands-free is back, but this time it looks way cooler. The other style accessory to note came by way of Prada, leader of such things: the feather boa! Do you have one? Well you better hurry up and go get one. While frills might have been London’s tipple, it’s a bit of boa that did it for Milan. It’s something you’ll need to try out wearing first, getting the nuances of something dressy during the day just right. That said, Prada also brought in a nod to a new sense of minimalism, which echoed in Paris. A mac or trench was the key component of this. And where an Eighties influence was detected early on at Sportmax, it continued right on into Paris.
Gucci Fashion Show Ready-to-wear Collection Spring Summer 2017 Milan
PARIS, where it was all about the big-house changes: the first Dior collection from Maria Grazia Chiuri; the first collection from Bouchra Jarrar for Lanvin; the first solo collection from Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino; the first collection from Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent. Here, too, that Eighties sensibility could be found, as it was at Kenzo, Balenciaga, Haider Ackermann, and Isabel Marant. Paris saw its fair share of techno-digi fashion, too: Chanel transported us to its vaguely sci-fi future with light-up clutch bags (Dolce & Gabbana did heels), Chalayan projected that onto the catwalk walls via special belts, and JW Anderson put focus on the collaboration film that provided a backdrop to his collection at Loewe. Of course, social media moments were found everywhere, especially at the end of shows where there was no end of finale stampede-and-stop scenario.
Balenciaga Fashion Show Ready-to-wear Collection Spring Summer 2017 Paris
In a snapshot: Gucci and Vetements still reign supreme, but elsewhere rather than “trends," it’s more about the type of fashion personality you are. One part Prada to one part Burberry and a dash of Alexander Wang? Or more one part Jacquemus to one part Y/Project and the rest Balenciaga? Fashion operates in camps far more now, and you just need to pick which one you want to be a part of, or from which ones you want to wear which bits.