Stella Mccartney Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
When it comes to trend spotting this season Stella McCartney hit the nail on the head. She picked up on the whole “man, woman” thing that has the ladies appropriating every cool garment in a man’s wardrobe and making it their own. She also was clued in on the must have oversized silhouettes -the dominate shape of her show.
McCartney took the classic pinstripe out for a spin. Cutting it in exaggerated shapes, like cropped wide leg pants, wrap front jackets and strapless dresses that featured folds of extra fabrics sprouting out from one side. But why work with just a straight line when you can twist it to wrap the body, angel it down a short circle skirt or mix vertical and horizontal options together on a chalk stripe maxi sweater and top it off with a gray felted baseball cap.
There were a lot of easy pieces in this collection made to cocoon the body in comfort rather than restrict it. And while the maxi shirt dresses in shades of aubergine and purple were nice enough it was the loose sweater dresses and the tops with lace inserts covering bottom halves that captured the idea of easy elegance.
Thankfully, the odd “peeled back wallpaper” silk print ensembles, that stuck out like a sore thumb, only made a brief appearance in this otherwise calm collection. As far as patterns are concerned, the lightly shaded tartan textiles needle punched (a popular technique this season) onto a structured yet voluminous denim jacket was more coherent with the direction of this show. And what girl doesn’t want at least one cashmere tracksuit in her closet- even if she only wears it in the comfort of her own home.
Towards the end of the show McCartney moved her designs closer to the body. Still pushing the men’s tailoring idea, this time she used the lapels to give structure to the outfits which pushed volume to the front of the jacquard garments. A technique that worked particularly well on the last exit, a crème halter-neck top that scooped down exposing the back paired with a wide-cut floor skimming trouser. It made for a classy finish to this pleasing show.
- Jessica Michault