While seeing fall product on the cusp of the fall season makes sense practically, one can’t help but feel somewhat confused by the contrast of other spring-infused collections that are being shown simultaneously. This voluntary mix-up was definitely present in Tom Ford and Thakoon’s ready-to-wear shows. Dark, moody, and autumnal color schemes set the tone that fall is indeed upon us - not spring.
With Tom Ford’s discreet and star-studded show, his signature glamorous narrative was evident throughout the collection, tying together a mix of eras and personas. Textural tweed A-line skirts, pieced fur coats, and bedazzled evening looks cast an old Hollywood glamor vibe with rigid leather knee-high boots and multi-strap belts that took on a life of their own. The decision to pepper in some of the men’s looks for the first time worked seamlessly, especially given the blended approach to both masculinity and femininity within the assortment.
Thakoon's in-season collection was highly anticipated after his radio silence in February when he decided to skip presenting what should’ve been his fall show. And so may you ask, “Was it worth the wait?” The proportion play and unexpected layering felt unusually progressive for Thakoon, but the level of commerciality only underscored the designer’s ability to produce clothing that sells. In fact, seeing the collection for the first time and immediately being able to visit the e-commerce site to purchase the collection only further fueled shoppers’ curiosity of what the "see now, buy now" concept actually (and effectively) looks like.
For the sake of an overarching visual analogy, if one considers that September shows are (at least in part) dedicated to present that next spring floral print, there’s no denying that seeing heavyweight knits, long linecoats, and dark plaid patterns instead is understandably confusing. But maybe when other designers begin navigating these murky waters, it will be a mutually beneficial for both brands and consumers. Given the multitude of moving parts that make up fashion week, one can only hope that this will restore balance and minimize confusion when two opposing collections are shown side by side.