The New Heritage

There was a time when the London menswear shows lent heavily on the heritage of Savile Row to propel them into the spotlight and give them credibility. This was also at about the same time we laughably didn’t think men were too interested in clothes or fashion. But times have changed and now it’s not the Savile Row names one sees on the schedule to reinforce relevance, but the designers and labels that have steadily built up a name for themselves over the years. Cue Martine Rose and Craig Green, arguably two established and leading names on the calendar. What they don’t have in decade-old heritage, they have in ideas, creativity, and astute aesthetics.

Martine Rose Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in London. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.


Martine Rose’s is the kind of readily wearable and cool – she takes the best of retro and nostalgia as she did this season with the 1980s and shows us great style combinations. You see the collections; you want the collections. It’s the polo shirts and the denim jackets, this season especially the fleeces; it’s the workwear-meets-going-out of yesteryear and it tugs on the old fashion heart strings because she shows us something familiar, like watching a rerun but this time it’s better than you remember.

The designer set her Spring/Summer 2020 collection to the backdrop of a later 1980s London, a time she recalls as being open, where everyone was allowed to be who they were. That was her explicit invitation this weekend: Coexist. But the clever thing about her clothes is that, message or not, they’re compelling pieces because they’re real. Nostalgia, as she has played with these past couple of collections, is safe in her hands.


Martine Rose Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in London. Photos by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.

In contrast to Martine Rose, you have Craig Green: conceptual, avant-garde, yet with an unwavering popularity because he knows how to dilute that down into something more accessible and human. Of late, this journey has become more apparent in his collections, categorised by section, of similar pieces or the same pieces but offered in various colour ways. It’s a neat move in enabling the eye to get used to his silhouettes and making sure that said pieces stay in the brain and don’t get lost among all the other collections.

Craig Green Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in London. Photos by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.


The first leather look today felt like he was doing an about-turn and heading towards overt Rick Owens territory which would have been interesting. For those who thought that might be daunting, the pace soon changed to those tried and trusted pieces, the quilted utility jackets and tech trousers; a beautiful series of pyjama suits paraded out in gorgeous bright colours, and then there came checked ponchos. Followed by the showstopper: paper lantern outfits in neon shades, laser-cut with doily-like motifs, something that was a recurring theme. It made for a warmer crafty feel and opened up his repertoire a little more – which is beneficial for a designer who, though has cleverly coined a look, has to be careful not to get backed into a corner.  

Arguably this is the new heritage, the streets of Savile Row replaced by those names that have worked hard on the runway. That is of course not to overlook Savile Row. One can’t. But in much the same way as couture operates in its own realm and on its own terms, so too does Savile Row. And that London Fashion Menswear Week can now stand on its own two feet without needing to lean on it makes for a very positive outlook indeed.

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Copenhagen Fashion Week Inks Sustainability Action Plan
By Alice Ierace
Copenhagen Fashion Week has announced its new Sustainability Action Plan for 2020-2022 designed...
By Alice Ierace
Copenhagen Fashion Week has announced its new Sustainability Action Plan for 2020-2022 designed to reinforce the event’s sustainability profile and prompt the industry to accelerate its sustainability efforts.The plan details how the fashion event will transition into becoming more sustainable...
Copenhagen Fashion Week has announced its new Sustainability Action Plan for 2020-2022 designed to reinforce the event’s sustainability profile and prompt the industry to accelerate its sustainability efforts.The plan details how the fashion event will transition into becoming more sustainable through a series of commitments, including the reduction of its climate impact by 50% and rethinking...
Shifting Systems
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
Samuel Ross was conspicuous by his absence from London’s menswear schedule this season. Or, to be...
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
Samuel Ross was conspicuous by his absence from London’s menswear schedule this season. Or, to be more precise, by the nature of his presence. In place of the runway events which have become one of the week’s most theatrical talking points, A-COLD-WALL* staged an installation in a long, darkened...
Samuel Ross was conspicuous by his absence from London’s menswear schedule this season. Or, to be more precise, by the nature of his presence. In place of the runway events which have become one of the week’s most theatrical talking points, A-COLD-WALL* staged an installation in a long, darkened room, miles from the rest of the shows — and devoted that installation in its entirety to...
Hermès To Launch First Refillable Lipstick Line
By Alice Ierace
For the first time in its 183-year history, luxury brand Hermès has revealed the launch of a new...
By Alice Ierace
For the first time in its 183-year history, luxury brand Hermès has revealed the launch of a new beauty line, starting with a refillable lipstick. The line, called Rouge Hermès, pays homage to the brand’s perfume collection launched in 2000.The range of lipsticks, inspired by an archive of 75,000...
For the first time in its 183-year history, luxury brand Hermès has revealed the launch of a new beauty line, starting with a refillable lipstick. The line, called Rouge Hermès, pays homage to the brand’s perfume collection launched in 2000.The range of lipsticks, inspired by an archive of 75,000 silk swatches and 900 leather shades, will have plastic-free packaging made from the same metals...
Indian bridal couturier Sabyasachi collaborates with H&M
By Aarushi Saxena
Within just five years of being launched in India, on Tuesday January 21st, Swedish fast-fashion...
By Aarushi Saxena
Within just five years of being launched in India, on Tuesday January 21st, Swedish fast-fashion brand H&M announced a collaboration with renowned Indian bridal couture designer, Sabyasachi. Featuring in the dreams of every Indian bride, his designs are as maximalist as they come, echoing...
Within just five years of being launched in India, on Tuesday January 21st, Swedish fast-fashion brand H&M announced a collaboration with renowned Indian bridal couture designer, Sabyasachi. Featuring in the dreams of every Indian bride, his designs are as maximalist as they come, echoing traditions through indigenous craftsmanship and textiles, while catering to the Indian elite and a...
Why Nike Won Chinese New Year
By Jing Zhang
For fashion brands, Chinese New Year can be a lucrative period; it is considered a lucky time for...
By Jing Zhang
For fashion brands, Chinese New Year can be a lucrative period; it is considered a lucky time for the Chinese to buy new clothing. The likes of Burberry and Marni regularly release capsules celebrating the new cycle of the Chinese zodiac. Red coloured fashions and accessories (the colour beckons...
For fashion brands, Chinese New Year can be a lucrative period; it is considered a lucky time for the Chinese to buy new clothing. The likes of Burberry and Marni regularly release capsules celebrating the new cycle of the Chinese zodiac. Red coloured fashions and accessories (the colour beckons luck) are everywhere in luxury stores and street markets, as are cute animations of the animal we’re...
Alessandra Facchinetti Joins Harlan+Holden
By Alice Ierace
As it embarks on its fifth year, further expansion within its three markets and a conscious...
By Alice Ierace
As it embarks on its fifth year, further expansion within its three markets and a conscious outlook on online, Seoul-based clothing brand harlan + holden has appointed Alessandra Facchinetti as its first Creative Director.“We are very pleased to announce Alessandra Facchinetti as Creative...
As it embarks on its fifth year, further expansion within its three markets and a conscious outlook on online, Seoul-based clothing brand harlan + holden has appointed Alessandra Facchinetti as its first Creative Director.“We are very pleased to announce Alessandra Facchinetti as Creative Director of harlan + holden. Beyond her immense talent, creativity and experience, we found a partner and...
Matteo De Rosa Joins Dries Van Noten
By Alice Ierace
As one of Puig’s first moves since the acquisition of a majority stake of Dries Van Noten back in...
By Alice Ierace
As one of Puig’s first moves since the acquisition of a majority stake of Dries Van Noten back in 2018, the Spanish company appointed Italian Matteo De Rosa as the fashion brand’s latest President, effective February 1st.De Rosa brings a wealth of experience to the role, which includes six years...
As one of Puig’s first moves since the acquisition of a majority stake of Dries Van Noten back in 2018, the Spanish company appointed Italian Matteo De Rosa as the fashion brand’s latest President, effective February 1st.De Rosa brings a wealth of experience to the role, which includes six years at renowned global retailer Ports 1961 (where he also held the title of Managing Director during his...
Hyerès’ Fashion Finalists: Beyond Traditional Beauty
By Rebecca Voight
France’s upcoming Hyères International Fashion, Photography and Accessories Festival  (April...
By Rebecca Voight
France’s upcoming Hyères International Fashion, Photography and Accessories Festival  (April 23-27) turns thirty-five this year. Like the stylish world it celebrates, the finalists are making their mark with diversity, original materials, artisanal expertise and personal vision. Half of the...
France’s upcoming Hyères International Fashion, Photography and Accessories Festival  (April 23-27) turns thirty-five this year. Like the stylish world it celebrates, the finalists are making their mark with diversity, original materials, artisanal expertise and personal vision. Half of the shortlisted designers, five out of ten, are from France, which shows a marked increase. The rest,...