The Nina Ricci Rumour Mill

It’s not fashion week without a creative director bombshell dropped right in the middle of it. Just as you’re struggling to keep up with the on-the-hour show schedule, you’re also trying to keep up with who’s left which house and gone where. The big news of the week so far has been Riccardo Tisci landing the Burberry gig following Christopher Bailey’s departure; next up has been the news that apparently Guillaume Henry is leaving Nina Ricci, the storied Parisian house at which he’s been creative director since 2014. And then it was further reported that that wasn’t the case at all. Fashion week, it does so like to keep us on our toes. And we’re still not entirely clear on Guillaume’s tenure at the house, though the designer – who took over from Peter Copping – seemed happy as he took his bow, a cheeky smile on his face. 


NINA RICCI FW18 show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.

Of the collection, meanwhile, carabinieri trousers in red began it, with duffle coats boasting “NR” logo hardware up top. This was a more daywear-orientated offering, it felt, with shirting and blouses taking flight with their winged sleeves, a silhouette that continued with capes in the plenty. 

It was graceful as ever with molten liquid looks to give an overall fluidity – subversive bursts with boudoir slips in a latex-like sheen. And as Jonathan Anderson at Loewe had shown this morning, there was a focus on the bra – for pointed cone shapes. There was certainly a retro-vintage feel, looks styled with pillbox-net-veiled hats. These were the kind of clothes that had manners and the use of colour was fantastic – Guillaume, who was responsible for turning Carven into something contemporary – has an eye for colour that brings together combinations that oddly work, or jar in just the right kind of way. Silver and pink, lilac and red, steel blues, these were all at play here. 


NINA RICCI FW18 show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.

Back to the rumour in question and if it was the case he was leaving: following the departure of David Koma at Mugler earlier in the year, this would be the latest of an influx of new names at heritage houses that began three years or so ago, Courrèges another label among them. 

If one were reading very very deeply into the collection, they might read those black veils as funereal. It did feel like a shorter offering, too. 

But if it’s not true and one isn’t reading so very deep, then this was just another Paris Fashion Week red-herring rumour – of which there are plenty out there at the moment, so many house vacancies and designers waiting to fill them. Or maybe not. 

 

See NINA RICCI's full FW18 collection here.