The One To Watch: Neith Nyer

"What's the first rule of Fight Club?" an editor asked backstage at the Neith Nyer show in Paris. "You do not talk about Fight Club," joked Francisco Terra when discussing his Spring/Summer 2017 collection backstage. And indeed, there was no need to talk about it, as the runway would speak for itself. Sporting an energetic mix of gender-bending outfits that made nods to various subcultures, such as the techno and hardcore scenes, while making clear references to David Fincher's iconic movie, the models who walked down the runway, among them Dustin Muchuvitz and Raya Martini, were as eclectic as the collection itself. Confident, provocative, and reflecting on sexual and personal freedom in all its forms, they – the outfits and their wearers – epitomize Paris youth today, who are fighting for open-mindedness more than ever before. NOWFASHION talked to the Brazilian born and Paris-based designer about his multi-faceted influences and what it means to be a designer in 2016. 

 

Neith Nyer Fashion Show Ready-to-wear Collection Spring Summer 2017 Paris

 

On Fight Club and the Millennial as an inspiration. 

"My collections are inspired by the moments I experience. The Spring/Summer 2017 collection was inspired by the film ‘Fight Club,’ more specifically by four scenes in the film, and therefore the show is a parade of four styles inspired by some of the scenes from this film. For me, ‘Fight Club’ in some way represents my teenage years. This was the beginnings of the internet, between 1999 and 2000, and at the time, there was a certain renewal and freshness that the internet was bringing to society. The 2000s gave fashion a ‘dirty,’ scruffy aspect, somewhat vulgar and ‘bling’ with high G-strings. All these aspects of the 2000s were the guiding principle for my fashion show.”

 

Neith Nyer Fashion Show Ready-to-wear Collection Spring Summer 2017 Paris

 

On multi-culturalism and paying a tribute to his team.

"I have a large team supporting me, both at work in my atelier and in my personal life – all the models in the show are actually my friends. Toward the end of the collection, I realized that the audience didn’t yet know my team, and I wanted to show them how important and dear they are to me. To do this, I created scarfs in honor of the people I work with. Every scarf is a message to someone in my team. Besides that, there were lots of cultural influences that were added – for example, Japanese inscriptions designed by Hizgi, an illustrator who worked with me for all the embroidery and writing. As for the earmuffs, they are inspired by the hair accessories of the afro hairdressers in Château Rouge, Paris. I like to take inspiration from my own neighborhood and travels to create my collections." 

 

Neith Nyer Fashion Show Ready-to-wear Collection Spring Summer 2017 Paris

 

On realness and revisited beauty standards in 2016. 

"In my past collections, I have always said that Neith Nyer was a ‘gang’ made out of people from our real life. Showing my collections on agency models would therefore not match my discourse – it would have been a bit hypocritical. I've always wanted to present my fashion collections on people I wanted to dress, on the people that inspire me every day and those are not fictional but in my own entourage. 90% of the model casting of my fashion show is made up of my friends – people who are mostly artists themselves. I don’t only sell clothing – I sell clothing with everything that goes with it, with the personality of the person wearing it. These are people I go out with to party, people who are close to me. In fashion, we tend to invent muses for ourselves or imaginary clients, but I think that we should be more attentive to those around us; that we should speak to people close to us, that we should speak about our society and be more rooted in reality, even if we remain very creative as designers, because in the end, we are there to make clothes to be worn."  

 

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