The Year of Fashion Consciousness

Fashion-conscious used to mean caring about how you looked. But cast your mind back to this time last year and the fight for sustainability was only just beginning. It would be another 11 months before Bethany Williams would win the award for Emerging Menswear Talent at the Fashion Awards and we could look back on 2019 as being the year of sustainability, officially. Suddenly being fashion conscious meant something else entirely.

Big or small, designers and luxury brands in their swathes signed up to pledge and manifest ways to exist in fashion consciously. And the effects were felt at the London menswear collections.

At the Charles Jeffrey Loverboy show, one full of drama, spectacle and live performance, the designer issued his own Manifesto For Conscious Practice, noting that while his brand has always been about excess, there are ways to create that without, er, being quite so excessive. Nine points covered his intentions, while another five explained how this collection in particular reflected and fulfilled these aims – GOT standard cotton, tartan made in Scotland, made-to-order fabric, visits to factories to ensure worker conditions.

“This time we’ve put menswear into thinking about sustainability and conscious fashion because that’s very important in the industry,” said the creative director of Munn, Hyun-Min Han, backstage at his show this week. The designer, not unfamiliar with its design possibilities, had previously used feedstock sacks in collections. This time, he incorporated neckties and scarves made from leftover fabric; bags made from old tyres and coffee bean bags; and recycled denim, rayon and nylon. “We’ve given an Oriental Korean twist to it,” he explained – which, in his hands, continues to retain the signature elegance of the brand.

Something that Priya Ahluwalia, too, is keen to preserve. “It starts with the research. I don’t want it to be like ‘Oh this is recycled.’ I try really hard to elevate the materials along with everything else. You want people to really love it and see that it can be fresh,” she said at her presentation, noting how recycling and re-using is all part of her working practise, yes, but not the only defining characteristic of it.

This season she was inspired by the year 1965. “I wanted to look at a cross-section of culture, not just through a fashion lens.” Which is likely why the pieces were so strong, full of finesse and believable – because they operated in the real world, with the added bonus that fabric, in some cases, had already had a former life.

And ultimately, as being “conscious” or “sustainable” (whatever you want to call it) becomes the default, this desirability factor is going to play an increasing role.

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Hybridists of the Fashion Sphere
By Alice Ierace and Ludovica Parisi
Streetwear meets Japanese Heritage at Facetasm...
By Alice Ierace and Ludovica Parisi
By Alice Ierace and Ludovica Parisi
Streetwear meets Japanese Heritage at Facetasm Show   Founded in 2007 by Japanese designer Hiromichi Ochiai, Facetasm embraces Tokyo’s essence through a variety of laid-back styles from the sportswear vibe. His ability to play with perspectives...
Streetwear meets Japanese Heritage at Facetasm Show   Founded in 2007 by Japanese designer Hiromichi Ochiai, Facetasm embraces Tokyo’s essence through a variety of laid-back styles from the sportswear vibe. His ability to play with perspectives categorises him as one of the most eclectic menswear and womenswear designers of the time. From unisex...
A Duchampian Affair at Loewe
By Elisa Carassai
“Everything important that I have done can be put into a little suitcase," said Duchamp in...
By Elisa Carassai
By Elisa Carassai
“Everything important that I have done can be put into a little suitcase," said Duchamp in 1952. Inspired by the same artful spirit, at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson decided to ship across the world a series of boxes containing the things that inspired him, the details that made the process of...
“Everything important that I have done can be put into a little suitcase," said Duchamp in 1952. Inspired by the same artful spirit, at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson decided to ship across the world a series of boxes containing the things that inspired him, the details that made the process of creating so special and mini iterations of his final looks. Almost mirroring Duchamp's desire to display...
Sartorial Masters Debut at Paris Menswear
By Elisa Carassai and Ludovica Parisi
Summer Nostalgia at Davi Paris...
By Elisa Carassai and Ludovica Parisi
By Elisa Carassai and Ludovica Parisi
Summer Nostalgia at Davi Paris Spring / Summer 2021    After working for over 20 years at Ter et Bantine, Dirk Bikkembergs, Mila Schon and Giorgio Armani and Gucci, Italian designer Davide Marello finally displayed his own...
Summer Nostalgia at Davi Paris Spring / Summer 2021    After working for over 20 years at Ter et Bantine, Dirk Bikkembergs, Mila Schon and Giorgio Armani and Gucci, Italian designer Davide Marello finally displayed his own creative vision in 2018, launching Davi Paris at Paris Men’s Fashion Week.   With his subtle,...
GmbH and The Power of Community
By Elisa Carassai
Formed in 2016 by Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby, Berlin-based collective GmbH has...
By Elisa Carassai
Formed in 2016 by Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby, Berlin-based collective GmbH has garnered over the past few years a reputation for their diverse collaborative approach and innovative sustainable outlook which ensures the majority of the pair’s clothes are made from deadstock material...
Formed in 2016 by Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby, Berlin-based collective GmbH has garnered over the past few years a reputation for their diverse collaborative approach and innovative sustainable outlook which ensures the majority of the pair’s clothes are made from deadstock material sourced from a high-end factory in Milan – in resistance to the overconsumption of today’s fashion...
Standing Against Adversity Together
By Elisa Carassai and Sasha Regazzoni
SEAN SUEN  For Paris Digital Fashion Week, SUEN SUEN has debuted “Dionysian”, the brand’s...
By Elisa Carassai and Sasha Regazzoni
By Elisa Carassai and Sasha Regazzoni
SEAN SUEN  For Paris Digital Fashion Week, SUEN SUEN has debuted “Dionysian”, the brand’s Spring-Summer 21 collection which explores the dichotomy between the essence of human life and its conflicting internal emotions. The collection premiered with a short esoteric film capturing the tragic...
SEAN SUEN  For Paris Digital Fashion Week, SUEN SUEN has debuted “Dionysian”, the brand’s Spring-Summer 21 collection which explores the dichotomy between the essence of human life and its conflicting internal emotions. The collection premiered with a short esoteric film capturing the tragic theme of an irrational state of intertwined pain and intoxicating revelry where souls wander in a state...
Time Travelling to Old Glamour at PFW
By Alice Ierace and Sasha Regazzoni
Preppy School and 50s Galore at Ernest W. BakerFor the second day of Paris Fashion Week, brand...
By Alice Ierace and Sasha Regazzoni
By Alice Ierace and Sasha Regazzoni
Preppy School and 50s Galore at Ernest W. BakerFor the second day of Paris Fashion Week, brand Ernest W. Baker decided to rely on its heritage. “For a lot of people, us included, the pandemic and subsequent lockdown were a moment of awakening to what is really important. Being away from our loved...
Preppy School and 50s Galore at Ernest W. BakerFor the second day of Paris Fashion Week, brand Ernest W. Baker decided to rely on its heritage. “For a lot of people, us included, the pandemic and subsequent lockdown were a moment of awakening to what is really important. Being away from our loved ones, or unable to be with them physically really pushed this idea of family,” the designers...
Rave Digital: Ravensbourne Launches Fashion Game on Twitch
By Elisa Carassai
As Haute Couture Week draws to a close and Menswear begins...
By Elisa Carassai
As Haute Couture Week draws to a close and Menswear begins its digitised alternative, it comes as no surprise that brands have been battling to find ways to stand out from their competitors in the most ingenious ways on various video streaming...
As Haute Couture Week draws to a close and Menswear begins its digitised alternative, it comes as no surprise that brands have been battling to find ways to stand out from their competitors in the most ingenious ways on various video streaming platforms.   One of these is Amazon's Twitch, a video-streaming platform that started with gamers and now...
Unconventionality is The Word
By Alice Ierace and Ludovica Parisi
For the first day of Paris Fashion Week Online, British luxury brand JW Anderson decided to...
By Alice Ierace and Ludovica Parisi
By Alice Ierace and Ludovica Parisi
For the first day of Paris Fashion Week Online, British luxury brand JW Anderson decided to premiere an exclusive short video in black and white. “The idea is that you can tell and experience the story in your own way. At your own pace. It’s about going back to making and telling stories,”...
For the first day of Paris Fashion Week Online, British luxury brand JW Anderson decided to premiere an exclusive short video in black and white. “The idea is that you can tell and experience the story in your own way. At your own pace. It’s about going back to making and telling stories,” explained the designer. With this idea of exploration and storytelling in mind, photographer Lewis Ronald...