The Year of Fashion Consciousness

Fashion-conscious used to mean caring about how you looked. But cast your mind back to this time last year and the fight for sustainability was only just beginning. It would be another 11 months before Bethany Williams would win the award for Emerging Menswear Talent at the Fashion Awards and we could look back on 2019 as being the year of sustainability, officially. Suddenly being fashion conscious meant something else entirely.

Big or small, designers and luxury brands in their swathes signed up to pledge and manifest ways to exist in fashion consciously. And the effects were felt at the London menswear collections.

At the Charles Jeffrey Loverboy show, one full of drama, spectacle and live performance, the designer issued his own Manifesto For Conscious Practice, noting that while his brand has always been about excess, there are ways to create that without, er, being quite so excessive. Nine points covered his intentions, while another five explained how this collection in particular reflected and fulfilled these aims – GOT standard cotton, tartan made in Scotland, made-to-order fabric, visits to factories to ensure worker conditions.

“This time we’ve put menswear into thinking about sustainability and conscious fashion because that’s very important in the industry,” said the creative director of Munn, Hyun-Min Han, backstage at his show this week. The designer, not unfamiliar with its design possibilities, had previously used feedstock sacks in collections. This time, he incorporated neckties and scarves made from leftover fabric; bags made from old tyres and coffee bean bags; and recycled denim, rayon and nylon. “We’ve given an Oriental Korean twist to it,” he explained – which, in his hands, continues to retain the signature elegance of the brand.

Something that Priya Ahluwalia, too, is keen to preserve. “It starts with the research. I don’t want it to be like ‘Oh this is recycled.’ I try really hard to elevate the materials along with everything else. You want people to really love it and see that it can be fresh,” she said at her presentation, noting how recycling and re-using is all part of her working practise, yes, but not the only defining characteristic of it.

This season she was inspired by the year 1965. “I wanted to look at a cross-section of culture, not just through a fashion lens.” Which is likely why the pieces were so strong, full of finesse and believable – because they operated in the real world, with the added bonus that fabric, in some cases, had already had a former life.

And ultimately, as being “conscious” or “sustainable” (whatever you want to call it) becomes the default, this desirability factor is going to play an increasing role.

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Pitti Announces New Calendar
By Elisa Carassai
After last week's previous announcements which declared...
By Elisa Carassai
By Elisa Carassai
After last week's previous announcements which declared the postponement of Milano Moda Uomo and the Paris shows to September, the Pitti Group also divulged the change of dates of their upcoming fairs and events.   The majority of the fairs will be...
After last week's previous announcements which declared the postponement of Milano Moda Uomo and the Paris shows to September, the Pitti Group also divulged the change of dates of their upcoming fairs and events.   The majority of the fairs will be hosted in September (the 98th edition of the show will be hosted from the 2nd to the 4th of...
Huda Kattan Pledges $100.000 in Support of Struggling Make-up Artists
By Alice Ierace
Beauty icon, entrepreneur and founder of Huda Beauty, Huda...
By Alice Ierace
Beauty icon, entrepreneur and founder of Huda Beauty, Huda Kattan, has pledged to donate $100,000 to support freelance make-up artists who are struggling during the COVID-19 crisis.   In a raw and emotional Instagram video, she explained: “When...
Beauty icon, entrepreneur and founder of Huda Beauty, Huda Kattan, has pledged to donate $100,000 to support freelance make-up artists who are struggling during the COVID-19 crisis.   In a raw and emotional Instagram video, she explained: “When coronavirus first hit, I think everyone was scared about like ‘how can I protect my loved ones?’ And...
L'Oréal Acquires the Mugler Brands and Azzaro Fragrances
By Alice Ierace
Beauty brand L’Oréal has announced that, after obtaining the necessary authorisations from the...
By Alice Ierace
Beauty brand L’Oréal has announced that, after obtaining the necessary authorisations from the relevant authorities, it has finalised the acquisition of the Mugler brands and Azzaro fragrances from Clarins Group.As it stands, the companies include Mugler, Thierry Mugler (Fashion), Clarins...
Beauty brand L’Oréal has announced that, after obtaining the necessary authorisations from the relevant authorities, it has finalised the acquisition of the Mugler brands and Azzaro fragrances from Clarins Group.As it stands, the companies include Mugler, Thierry Mugler (Fashion), Clarins Fragrance Group (CFG), CFG France, Cosmeurop and CFG UK – activities that, in 2018, represented...
Marco Zanini’s Quest for Independence
By Elisa Carassai
Marco Zanini is no rookie in the fashion system. With a...
By Elisa Carassai
Marco Zanini is no rookie in the fashion system. With a background that counts experiences at Versace, Halston, Schiaparelli, Rochas and Santoni, the designer has, over time, developed a cult following his appointment at Rochas. It comes however, as a...
Marco Zanini is no rookie in the fashion system. With a background that counts experiences at Versace, Halston, Schiaparelli, Rochas and Santoni, the designer has, over time, developed a cult following his appointment at Rochas. It comes however, as a surprise, to why an experienced designer like Zanini would want to take a ‘gamble’ on himself and...
On a Hunt For Quality
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
To kill time in this period of confinement, I set out to stitch the button on a coat I had only...
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
To kill time in this period of confinement, I set out to stitch the button on a coat I had only worn 3 or 4 times. Then, I remembered that another button was detached from a jacket that was not much older; that the hem of a pair of trousers was beginning to unravel; that the lining of a coat was...
To kill time in this period of confinement, I set out to stitch the button on a coat I had only worn 3 or 4 times. Then, I remembered that another button was detached from a jacket that was not much older; that the hem of a pair of trousers was beginning to unravel; that the lining of a coat was loose by a few centimetres. That several parts of my dressing room were in need of small repairs...
Upcoming Milan and Paris Shows Cancelled
By Alice Ierace
In light of the spread of the Covid-19 epidemic worldwide, Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana...
By Alice Ierace
In light of the spread of the Covid-19 epidemic worldwide, Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana has announced that the Milano Moda Uomo fashion shows and presentations, scheduled June 19th to June 23rd 2020, will now take place during Milano Moda Donna edition in September 2020 instead. “We are...
In light of the spread of the Covid-19 epidemic worldwide, Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana has announced that the Milano Moda Uomo fashion shows and presentations, scheduled June 19th to June 23rd 2020, will now take place during Milano Moda Donna edition in September 2020 instead. “We are working on new digital formats and new ways of meeting to create, in the days provided by Milano Moda...
Net-A-Porter Shutters E-Commerce Indefinitely
By Elisa Carassai
Fashion e-commerce platform Net-A-Porter has bowed to pressure from its worried workers and...
By Elisa Carassai
Fashion e-commerce platform Net-A-Porter has bowed to pressure from its worried workers and stopped its online operations during the coronavirus emergency.“We have made the difficult decision to close our distribution centres in the US and Europe, thus temporarily suspending service in these...
Fashion e-commerce platform Net-A-Porter has bowed to pressure from its worried workers and stopped its online operations during the coronavirus emergency.“We have made the difficult decision to close our distribution centres in the US and Europe, thus temporarily suspending service in these regions including the Middle East. Our Asia Pacific service remains open.” Net-A-Porter explained in an...
Armani and Estée Lauder To Join The Fight Against Covid-19
By Alice Ierace
After being amongst the first brands to offer financial support amid the Coronavirus crisis and...
By Alice Ierace
After being amongst the first brands to offer financial support amid the Coronavirus crisis and amongst the first to announce the closure of all its stores to safeguard the health and wellbeing of its staff and clients, Giorgio Armani has now announced the conversion of all its Italian production...
After being amongst the first brands to offer financial support amid the Coronavirus crisis and amongst the first to announce the closure of all its stores to safeguard the health and wellbeing of its staff and clients, Giorgio Armani has now announced the conversion of all its Italian production sites to manufacture disposable lab coats for the personal protection of health workers committed...