Theory Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2014 New York

Bye, bye Theysken’s Theory. Let’s all now welcome to the stage Theory.  Monday marked the first ever runway show for the main line of the brand that Andrew Rosen built. But the PRs seating front row guests were quick to relay the information that even though Olivier Theyskens’s rhyming last name was no longer emblazoned on the invitations it didn’t mean the designer had left the company. Rather it was a strategic move to integrate what was really the designer’s capsule line back into the main collection, since Theyskens was overseeing both anyway.

The decision to meld the two brands into one might have been born of practicality, but it actually delivered one of the companies most cohesive and sellable shows to date.

There was much to love in this minimalistic lineup. Primarily for Theyskens devotees, it was how the clothing really pushed to the foreground the designers considerable tailoring skills. A talent that sang out, not just from the beautifully cut black trousers or the slim knee length coats but also in the controlled way he introduced some subtle sex appeal.

That sentiment was stirred through skirts and dresses that were cut at a sloping angle to leave one knee bare, hourglass bar-esque jackets with ruffles of fabric gathered up at one hip or the more familiar, and trending this season, style of finishing off a short opaque skirt in semi shear fabric for a semblance of modesty.

This was a cool and cultivated collection from Theyskens. In the time it took the 32 looks to walk the runway, it wiped away any fears that Theory might be an empty shell of its predecessor. Theyskens has clearly not left the building.