Designer Olivier Theyskens is never one to run with the crowd. He has proven himself over the years to be something of a dark romantic who sees the world though eyes of a grown up lover of grunge and goth.
This is an outlook on life that might clash with the needs of a brand looking for sellable wardrobe staples. And in this collection, that tension between a designer’s desires and a brand’s practicality could be felt.
The styling of the show was clearing slanted towards Theysken’s dark aesthetic. The models, their hair matted and wet - think Daryl Hannah in Blade Runner- looked rather morose as they traipsed down the black catwalk. But looking past that – and the fact that this spring/summer collection was dominantly black- and the show had number of good commercial pieces to it.
Practical suits with its strong-shouldered curved in jackets looked like winners. As did the nubby oversized sweaters, wide cut pants and a clever shell dress that had the front panel wrap underneath the back to leave just the right amount of skin exposed at the sides.
But when the designer delved into the more experimental and textural icy blue ensembles he seemed to veer away from the needs of most modern woman. There is no point in trying to keep an edgy element out of a Theyskens collection. That is part of the reason to buy his designs in the first place. However in this collection, in partnership with Theory’s Andrew Rosen, those edges need to be rounded off a bit more.
- Jessica Michault