Thierry Mugler Menswear Spring Summer 2012 Paris
This, the second menswear collection for Mugler by creative director Nicola Formichetti and designer Romain Kremer showed a partnership that’s beginning to take form. Something is started to peek through. They married the club kid (which they both were and arguably still are) via pastel neons, muscle Mary stretchtops and lightweight, technical hooded jackets with a vision of man as an Olympic God, fresh, healthy and toned. With sparkling, green body glitter and matching merman leggings on one model, it was as if the Mugler man was rising from the sea. Indeed the teaser clip released prior to the show showed models led by Floridian Travis Cannata frolicking in the spray of waves. It was all about the corporeal form, the worship of MAN and showed scant clothing except Mugler swimming trunks. Very Bruce Weber meets erotica meets Grecian mythology. The collection, when picked apart, unearthed wearable pieces. Shorts in muted neon peppermint and powdery ultra-violet; stonewashed denim on denim and light varsity jackets with matching Mugler crest on the chest. A Mugler shape is gradually starting to form with the formal suits and jackets; shoulders are tough at the shoulder seam and trousers have give at the thigh yet taper in slim to the shoes. The collaboration between UK shoe brand Underground and Mugler takes the classic pointed brothel creeper shape and presents it in multiple variations: patent, neon, buckled, panelled - an instant cult buy for SS12.