Thom Browne Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2012 New York
Known for his conceptual fashion, American designer Thom Browne hits the nail on the head again, by providing an estranging yet captivating show: models coming out of coffins, who would have conjured that?
This said, Browne's black widow is a quiet and emancipated woman. Like in previous seasons, his vision is always guided by menswear dress codes therefore Browne fuses contrary elements such as voluminous bow-shaped dresses with a man's tuxedo vest and tie – an obvious and yet playful juxtaposition. Geometrical patterns on dresses suggest languorously fitted waistlines; padded shoulders, knees, hips and breasts play with an exaggerated curvy silhouette. The neutral color palette puts forward variations of gray, from ash gray, over anthracite, to a dustier gray. But Browne's woman in mourning is far from being a depressed wreck: the designer shows that he's got a sense humor, with a fake fox in the place of a fur stole – PETA says hello – and fur applications used suggestively as pubic hair.
We love Browne's story telling that took us between sexual connotations of Niki de Saint Phalle silhouettes and mourning brides. Dark and yet dreamy.
- Elisabeta Tudor