Thom Browne has always been one of the great storytellers of fashion. His seasonal collections are unique and quirky chapters in his sartorial view of the world, or his “choose your own adventure” approach.
This time, it lead the designer into the realm of a bedtime story. The soundtrack was a melodic voice recounting the story of six sisters, and how they liked to dress alike on each day of the week.
However, he picked a different style of dress for each day to reflect the taste of each of the sisters. Spoiler Alert – there are twins who like the same dresses so they shared a day. Come on…try and keep up with the narrative like the audience tried on Monday night.
The show was slow paced but Browne was bursting with theatrical designs that had the common thread of the sweet beauty of a summer garden, but seen here through the eyes of the Mad Hatter of fashion.
The couture level of craftsmanship was breathtaking. Beautifully tailored suits camedécoupe, or cut into the shape of peonies, embellished with sequined daises or embroidered with colorful carnations. 1950s nipped-in the-waist dresses were outfitted with a cutaway silver trench and panel fronted pencil skirts, which were crafted from noble fabrics worked up into a new level of luxury.
One standout dress was covered in individual feathers, fluttering like abstract butterflies on slim batons - as if they were swarming the model’s diminutive frame. And let’s not forget the show-stopping hats. These were crafted to look like mini menswear suits or the outline of a prim ladies handbag, or a ruffled, sleeveless dress or colorful dunce caps. The headgear took the show to even greater heights.
Browne is no dummy. As over the top as this collection was, the workmanship and his attention to detail spoke volumes about how committed the designer is to making quality pieces that will stand the test of time and taste. His world might not be for everyone, but no one can ignore Browne’s immense talent.