Thomas Tait Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 London
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You know Thomas Tait will always get you in some underground space hidden in central London, the existence of which you did not suspect to be shivering at the end of a long day. Gin with hot spicy tea was served to keep guests warm in the cavernous garages on Carlton House Terrace, though it was probably the buzz of anticipation that did the trick.  Tait is still an absolute newbie by fashion week standards – only 6 seasons in-  and he delivers like a pro every time. No wonder his show, despite happening at the same time as Rihanna’s River Island outing, was still packed; the audience knew they’d get what they came for – and did: a high-tech, high-speed cinematic outing.

As the show started, an enormous tunnel was revealed at the end of catwalk, through which the models militantly walked out amid flashing green lights and fog. The theme of the season was clearly sportswear – not just casual separates and jerseys but full-on nylon, netting, and waterproof fabric affair complete with sneakers and sporty rubber sandals. “Teenage mutant cosmic disco trip” is how Tait described it, once again showing his soft spot for sci-fi and comic culture, distilled through a razor-sharp eye for cut and detail on the runway.

Equipped with paneled sweat pants, puffa and high-collared jackets and no-nonsense polos and hoodies, the Thomas Tait girls are not ones afraid of getting their hands dirty; they hang out in tunnels, party underground, and frequent car races. However, sometimes even Tait’s laser focus seemed to falter; from the logo-ed neoprenes to ski-gear suits, the collection sometimes fell into a too literal a sportswear zone. Still, the cleverly placed zip detailing, panels and the smatterings of leather provided the necessary uniqueness and edge to some garments dangerously close to belonging in a sports store.

What also made a much anticipated appearance – and possibly should have been more of – were the breathtaking tailored wool coats and separates that Tait is known and loved for. Of course, experimentation is du rigueur for a designer, especially one early in his tracks, and this collection once again proved Tait as a major talent. Not errorless, but one that always has – and most likely will have - the audience literally sitting up and cheering at the finale.

- Maria Dimitrova

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