There is an extraterrestrial theme sweeping through the catwalks so far. From Hunter Original’s moonwalker bomber jackets, MM6 Maison Martin Margiela’s space punk to Nicholas Kirkwood’s Back to the Future shoe presentation, the London designers must have foreseen some impending cosmic event we are not privy to. Thomas Tait is another one to add to that list based on the references to late ’60s geometric cutouts and styling that could be described as retrofuture, mixing nostalgic elements and splicing them with ultramodern flourishes. For what felt like a contemporary take on Pierre Cardin and perhaps Courrèges, the collection’s reinterpretation of fashion history was true to Tait’s tendency to study the past in order to move forward. Such a process lends him the unspoken title of the designer’s designer – so much so that fashion’s foremost belligerent player Yeezus himself concedes to his admiration for Tait’s work.
The show was consistent throughout. Puddle trousers worn under white A-line halters opened with a punch. The simplicity of the look accentuated the main cutout motifs that emerged like crop circles in an open field. Sheer ribbed textures added to the model’s alien-like quality, while patent leather patchworked with workwear denim tied the collection back to the ‘60s/‘70s reference. As the show progressed, Tait piled on the layers and pushed the outfitting to a new height: by the look on fellow editors’ faces, it was clear they were eyeing which pieces to score for themselves. Particularly look 15, the long-line textured cardigan worn over a crisp white shirt with oversized pique collars, paired with patent peanut paneled trousers, took the show on a home run. The season’s must-have item, the one-piece, also made its way into Tait’s collection, albeit in rich brown suede and leather scallop trims that resembled an exquisite mid-century furniture design.
With yet another strong showing by the bright talent, it really begs the question why he remains as one of the most underrated designers at London Fashion Week.