Tiger of Sweden Menswear Spring Summer 2015 London
It was quite a jump from the scorching sunshine of Burberry's open-air show to the dark, industrial setting Tiger of Sweden used to display their collection. But perhaps the shift in mood was apt: the two brands sit poles apart on the menswear spectrum, and appeal to markedly different customers.
Established over a century ago in the town of Uddevalla (a place whose only other fashion claim to fame is as the birthplace of legendary midcentury model Lisa Fonssagrives), Tiger began to make an international name for itself in the Nineties. And today it's part of a cluster of brands like Zadig & Voltaire, The Kooples, Joseph and Reiss - brands who sit outside fashion's inner circle, focusing squarely on creating smart, modern, uncomplicated clothes.
For that reason, they're not the collections to look to for radical innovation or transgression. But they are where to go to assess what is (and isn't) being assimilated into the mainstream. And coming at the end of three days of London shows, Tiger's show was a timely reminder of how resilient menswear's codes truly are. The collection leant heavily on slim, two-piece suits in black, grey and rust, punctuated with dashes of more relaxed, adventurous detail - contrast-sleeved bombers, tailoring splattered with footprints, long overcoats covered in blurred two-tone leaf prints. These were all things that have been seen elsewhere, in differing forms, over the last few seasons - but it was good to see them escaping the rarefied fashion bubble, and preparing for the unforgiving reality check of the wider consumer world.