Tiger of Sweden Menswear Spring Summer 2016 London
It's easy to forget, in the midst of all the craziness, just how inward-looking London's menswear still is. For the most part, its preoccupations are the same they've always been: punk anarchy, Mod minimalism, tribal streetwear, and tailored tradition.
It takes outsiders – Chinese names like Xander Zhou and Sean Suen, or Scandinavians like Tiger of Sweden – to widen the week's focus. And the Tiger show, on the last main slot of the schedule, did just that. Loose-cut, wide-flapped tailoring in chalky whites and creams set a calm, gently nostalgic mood – one with vague maritime overtones, reinforced by slouchy fisherman sweaters and insignia-embroidered caps. Darker rusted prints added a melancholy undertow, replacing last season's aggressively graphic surfaces with an altogether softer line.
And, inevitably, it challenged the last four days of London shows, which have seemed so roundly convincing until now. Will they still seem so, once the shows in Paris and Milan are over? That's a question for another day.