“Charlie Don’t Surf”: Todd Lynn’s collection title alluding to Francis Ford Coppola’s Apocalypse Now was more than on-point; taking the safari suit as a base onto which to build an apocalyptic colonial story, Lynn revealed a much darker side to his aesthetic, and one that isn’t just about black and leather. He opened with a series of perfectly-fitted sand-coloured vintage stretch linen ensembles, including a stunning sculpted safari jackets with raglan sleeves, and later transitioned into saffron, jungle-green, and blood-red hues, some composing the eerie sedimentary prints from saturated colour washes created in collaboration with artist Marcus James. Manipulated by Lynn’s customary expert construction, the prints were both beautifully composed (especially regarding the fact that they were relatively new territory for the designer) and spine-chillingly unsettling. Set to a bespoke soundtrack by The Libertines’ Gary Powell, the show had a distinctly cinematic feel, capturing the surrealistic nightmare of Coppola’s film.
The looser safari-linen looks slowly got tightened first by leather corsets and coarsely stitched belts from ostrich leg hide, and later eventually evolving into Lynn’s signature stark leathers. Particularly notable were the black sculptural coat-dresses and the leather tops and dress with a midriff-exposing threaded bodice, continuing the deconstruction theme seen earlier in the degrade effects of mismatched weftless cloth yarn. Experimenting with materials and themes that are everything but easy, Lynn presented a sharp and beautifully sustained collection, and one that will surely mark the return of the updated safari jacket for at least a few seasons.
- Maria Dimitrova