Tom Ford Menswear Spring Summer 2015 London
They say Tom Ford is the golden standard: he will teach you how a man ought to be dressed. Each season a private salon-style presentation is held at his London head office where the designer walks selected guests through the collection himself. This season was no different, bar the nod to his inner cowboy.
Tom Ford Spring/Summer 15 could be described as a microcosm of the man: Texas, disco, and Warhol. Moving away from the usual evening wear-focused, Tom Ford-league tailoring, the designer brings forth American classics with much emphasis on denim. “America still makes the best denim,” quipped Ford explaining that they are mostly made in the States and if not Japan. The brand’s desire to build a strong denim arm is evident from the wall of jeans in various slim cuts and washes. The value proposition however is in the fit. “Everyone wants a butt like that – at least I do,” Ford punctuated his aside with a wink in his voice as he ushered a model off.
Befitting of the denim focus, Ford also highlighted the Southern touch to the collection. Cropped suede jackets in various rich earthy hues, worn over silk shirts and fitted denim, peppered the presentation. The colours were very much of the desert sand, warm, and rugged. Cuts were less formal than usual and took on an American sportswear theme. Cowboy boots in deep browns were also on offer – the perfect gear for a weekend in Ford’s famous Tadao Ando ranch in New Mexico.
And as with every Tom Ford presentation, his signature evening wear is mandatory. Full silk evening jackets were rendered in disco purples with extra sheen, with a few of them clad in a marble jacquard design. The nuances of Warhol’s Factory seem latent in Ford’s blood, although not always obvious. In reference to the fringe leather jackets, he brought up Joe Dallesandro, a Warhol Superstar reminding us that he is very much a child of the seventies.