TOP 10 fashion moments of #LFW

 

 

Over five hectic days, London’s designers ranged far and wide in their quest to stay ahead of the game. From new takes on red carpet dressing to inventive material explorations, and from supersized arcade games toexperiments in seasonless “slow” fashion, the schedule was nothing if not engagingly diverse. Here are NOWFASHION’s picks for the top 10 moments.

 

ALEXANDER McQUEEN

 

 

The first McQueen womenswear show held in London in 15 years was always going to be one of the week’s defining moments. Staged at night, in a venue where the late designer unleashed one of his earliest spectacles, Sarah Burton sent out a collection inspired by dreams. That translated into gossamer-light gilded Belle Époque gowns, coats stamped with surrealist motifs and lavishly embroidered quilted wraps.

Our full coverage of the Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show to (re)discover here.

 

ANYA HINDMARCH

 

 

Building on the success of the label’s presentations over the past few seasons, Hindmarch’s spectacular staging — a giant, arcade game-style checkerboard, whose pieces slid around the runway to a Giorgio Moroder soundtrack — hosted a lineup of luxurious outerwear and covetable bags, which came embellished with pixellated rainbow-coloured grids or stamped with giant Pac Man heads.

Our full coverage of the Anya Hindmarch Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show to (re)discover here.

 

ASHISH

 

 

You can never dampen Ashish’s spirits even when the times are looking down. The king of sequins went full-force disco with afros of every colour of the rainbow. Probably the London designer who makes most effort to represent diversity in his casting, Ashish’s collection read as another poignant step in that direction. The high-octane unapologetic celebration of Black beauty comes as a timely gesture given the recent conversations around Black Pride that heightened after Beyonce’s controversial performance at the Super Bowl.

Our full coverage of the Ashish Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show to (re)discover here.

 

FASHION EAST

 

 

There were many reasons to laud Fashion East this season, chief among which is Marc Jacobs’ presence in the front row. It was great to see the designer, who was bobbing his head to the music and nodding at practically every look that made it down the catwalk, lending his support on this side of the pond. Designers Mimi Wade, Richard Malone, Caitlin Price and AV Robertson are the next generation of British emerging talents that would hopefully walk in Jacob's footsteps someday.

Our full coverage of the Fashion East Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show to (re)discover here.

 

FAUSTINE STEINMETZ

 

 

Steinmetz’s witty peep-show-style presentation at the Tate Britain gallery reiterated just why she’s earned her “One To Watch” label. Focusing on single blasts of flat colour, the designer’s Winter 2016 collection revelled in its sculptural play on surfaces and shapes, with sustainable cotton woven into spectacular three-dimensional textures, and clashed with soft mohair and slick metallic foils.

Our full coverage of the Faustine Steinmetz Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show to (re)discover here.

 

GARETH PUGH

 

 

The dramatic setting and late-evening staging underscored Pugh’s reputation as London’s reigning master of macabre drama. Triggered by the notion of power dressing in the modern world, the designer’s collection featured Blade Runner-inspired replicants prowling the runway in razor-sharp tailored trouser suits, nostalgic Forties hairdos, provocative face-masks and finely sculpted film-noir sheath dresses. 

Our full coverage of the Gareth Pugh Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show to (re)discover here.

 

JW ANDERSON

 

 

Reinventing cocktail dressing is not something you would expect from JW Anderson but London’s original enfant terrible is full of surprises. Anderson’s manipulation of silhouettes felt even more concerted this season, challenging the typical hourglass shape that we have come to accept as the de facto ideal for cocktail dressing. The designer took to interior spaces as his starting point for materialising his cocktail gear. Anderson referenced interior designer David Hicks with a quote placed on the seats, signalling the designer’s homage to the unwavering pursuit of individuality.

Our full coverage of the JW Anderson Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show to (re)discover here.

 

MARTA JAKUBOWSKI

 

 

The newcomer at London Fashion Week proved that she’s one to remember with a striking presentation at the Institute of Contemporary Art (ICA). Jakubowski’s Super Hero collection puts her in the esteemed company of brands like Vetements and Gosha Rubchinskiy, especially through her deconstructed and anti-fashion aesthetic. The punchy red, white and black colour palette was markedly political. Codes of 80’s subculture, namely the pinstripes and overlength coats, resonated with the wider Post-Soviet trend sweeping through fashion at the moment. The Royal College of Art alumnus enlisted an A-list team with set designer Gary Card, art director David James and stylist Tati Cotliar to realise Jakubowski’s alternative universe.

Our full coverage of the Marta Jakubowski Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show to (re)discover here.

 

MARY KATRANTZOU

 

 

Mary Katrantzou transported the audience back to a time of child-like wonder, perhaps in search of an innocence lost. Central Saint Martins’ showspace became a silver foil wonderland designed by production maestro Alexandre de Betak. Wrapped floor rustled as the well-heeled celebrities and editors that Katrantzou typically commands took their seats. The show saw the marriage of contrasts: masculine-feminine, cowboys and princesses. Katrantzou went as far as engendering fabrics in the spirit of play. It felt spontaneous as hellfire flames with angels’ wings met butterflies and all things pretty. Hints of Russian proletariat dressing came through in the reference to Prokofiev’s Romeo and Juliet. With 80's classics playing in the background, one couldn't help but wonder if this was an exploration into the designer's own childhood. Personal and endearing, Katrantzou's show continued to push boundaries of print.

Our full coverage of the Mary Katrantzou Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show to (re)discover here.

 

SIMONE ROCHA

 

 

One of the capital’s most recent success stories, Rocha continued to play to her strengths for Winter 2016, with a collection that was steeped in her trademark brand of subverted romance. Soft, loosely-structured tweed outerwear, oversized knits and gorgeously embellished sheers combined evocative Fifties prettiness with deconstructed grunge drama in a compelling ode to modern femininity.

Our full coverage of the Simone Rocha Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show to (re)discover here.

 

 

DISCOVER THE LATEST IN NOWMAGAZINE HERE.

 

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
A Verdict on Digital Fashion Week
By Fabio Ciquera
In the past two weeks, we have witnessed an array of different and varied virtual presentations,...
By Fabio Ciquera
In the past two weeks, we have witnessed an array of different and varied virtual presentations, online happenings and symposia. One cannot accuse luxury houses to lack inventiveness, and there is a genuine appreciation for the quick turnaround in moving everything online. From Loewe to Prada and...
In the past two weeks, we have witnessed an array of different and varied virtual presentations, online happenings and symposia. One cannot accuse luxury houses to lack inventiveness, and there is a genuine appreciation for the quick turnaround in moving everything online. From Loewe to Prada and Dior, among the many names, the creative solutions have been exciting to watch. This new reality...
Revival LDN: The Upcycled Fashion Brand Aiming At Helping the Environment
By Alice Ierace
For years now, many fashion brands have added sustainability to their vocabulary and, through...
By Alice Ierace
For years now, many fashion brands have added sustainability to their vocabulary and, through research and proposals, have tried to lessen the fashion industry’s huge impact on the environment. However, despite the efforts, many are still the fast-fashion brands ignoring the issue. The problem is...
For years now, many fashion brands have added sustainability to their vocabulary and, through research and proposals, have tried to lessen the fashion industry’s huge impact on the environment. However, despite the efforts, many are still the fast-fashion brands ignoring the issue. The problem is that, no matter how sustainable they deem they are, we are still living in a fast-paced environment...
Reflections on Life post Lockdown at MFW
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
Etro Kicking off day two of Milan Fashion Week was ETRO presenting its Men’s Spring Summer 2021...
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
Etro Kicking off day two of Milan Fashion Week was ETRO presenting its Men’s Spring Summer 2021 and Women’s Resort 2021 collections with an informal gathering at Milan’s iconic Four Seasons Hotel. “We are finally back together, in the garden of this iconic hotel, in the heart of Milan’s...
Etro Kicking off day two of Milan Fashion Week was ETRO presenting its Men’s Spring Summer 2021 and Women’s Resort 2021 collections with an informal gathering at Milan’s iconic Four Seasons Hotel. “We are finally back together, in the garden of this iconic hotel, in the heart of Milan’s Montenapoleone district. We want to highlight that we are a family, that Etro is a family living in a world...
White Mountaineering Brings Back BLK Line
By Elisa Carassai
Showcasing at Paris Fashion Week, ’s White Mountaineering is the creative baby of Japanese...
By Elisa Carassai
Showcasing at Paris Fashion Week, ’s White Mountaineering is the creative baby of Japanese designer Yosuke Aizawa. This season, the designer not only presented an exclusive film directed by Daito Manabe from the Rhizomatiks, but he also decided to relaunch his original BLK line. Launched in 2009,...
Showcasing at Paris Fashion Week, ’s White Mountaineering is the creative baby of Japanese designer Yosuke Aizawa. This season, the designer not only presented an exclusive film directed by Daito Manabe from the Rhizomatiks, but he also decided to relaunch his original BLK line. Launched in 2009, White Mountaineering’s BLK Line proposed a new feel to outdoor wear with high-spec textiles and...
Digital Meets Local at Sunnei
By Elisa Carassai
Before lockdown started, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo...
By Elisa Carassai
By Elisa Carassai
Before lockdown started, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo were supposed to move in their newly-bought building, Casa Sunnei. Not being able to move in, and stuck quarantining home, the duo started reflecting on what they could do to move forward, at a slower...
Before lockdown started, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo were supposed to move in their newly-bought building, Casa Sunnei. Not being able to move in, and stuck quarantining home, the duo started reflecting on what they could do to move forward, at a slower pace.  “During the lockdown, I realized we were moving at a pace that was too fast - we were...
A Play of Poetics at MFW
By Elisa Carassai
MSGM’s Midsummer Night’s Dream Kicking off the first day of Milan’s Digital Fashion Week was...
By Elisa Carassai
By Elisa Carassai
MSGM’s Midsummer Night’s Dream Kicking off the first day of Milan’s Digital Fashion Week was Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM, with a film celebrating the new Milanese generation of young creatives, as well as the joy of life post-lockdown. Inspired by writer Isabella Santacroce’s book Fluo: Storie di...
MSGM’s Midsummer Night’s Dream Kicking off the first day of Milan’s Digital Fashion Week was Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM, with a film celebrating the new Milanese generation of young creatives, as well as the joy of life post-lockdown. Inspired by writer Isabella Santacroce’s book Fluo: Storie di Giovani a Riccione (“Fluo: Stories of Young People in Riccione”) – who also happens to be from...
Purity and Tradition Intertwine at MFW
By Alice Ierace
Prada and The Show That Never HappenedFew people do fashion quite like Miuccia Prada. After the...
By Alice Ierace
Prada and The Show That Never HappenedFew people do fashion quite like Miuccia Prada. After the announcement back in February stating that Raf Simons would become the brand’s new co-creative director, today we were lucky enough to witness Miuccia’s last solo collection – her final bow after three...
Prada and The Show That Never HappenedFew people do fashion quite like Miuccia Prada. After the announcement back in February stating that Raf Simons would become the brand’s new co-creative director, today we were lucky enough to witness Miuccia’s last solo collection – her final bow after three decades of unforgettable shows.Of course, a simple presentation wasn’t in the plan – it needed that...
Auralee’s Imaginary Journey Through Time
By Alice Ierace
Firstly launched in Tokyo, designer Ryota Iwai decided to present Auralee’s latest Spring/Summer...
By Alice Ierace
Firstly launched in Tokyo, designer Ryota Iwai decided to present Auralee’s latest Spring/Summer 21 collection during digital Paris Fashion Week as one of the major independent fashion brands.As a brand, Auralee is renowned for its magnificent clean silhouettes, impeccable quality and minimal...
Firstly launched in Tokyo, designer Ryota Iwai decided to present Auralee’s latest Spring/Summer 21 collection during digital Paris Fashion Week as one of the major independent fashion brands.As a brand, Auralee is renowned for its magnificent clean silhouettes, impeccable quality and minimal styling. Its aim? A full exploration into the development of their own fabrics. By taking inspiration...