Tory Burch Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 New York

The setting of the Tory Burch show gave the designer’s aesthetic away this season. The 1930’s ballroom at the historic Pierre hotel, with its swags of rich fabric curtains, sumptuous chandeliers and refined fixtures and fittings, is all about a cultivated elegance. It was that same sense of sophistication that Burch was trying to bring across in her show.
 
With Pierre-Yves Roussel, the president of the fashion division of LVMH, sitting in the front row Burch turned towards the highly decorative style of the Art Nouveau era as her starting point for collection. Looking at the work of its tent pole artists, Gustav Klimt, René Lalique and Alphonse Mucha the designer aimed to find a way to give that ornamental style a modern twist that would speak to women who want statement making fashion with a decidedly feminine flair.
 
As a stand alone show the collection was well executed. The insect theme that saw scarabs printed on dresses, iridescent “dragonfly wing” bead embellishments and lots of creepy crawly accessories (from sunglasses to pendent necklaces) were done in a chic way. So that a beetle print sweater and matching skirt that looked rather standard from the front would reveal a silk back covered in a colorful insect print or a burgundy knit top would be tricked out with golden “carapace” sequins on its short sleeves.  

The inclusion of perforated leather pieces, laser cut cloqué fabrics and floral appliqué on sturdy tweeds all gave the show a strong textural element but, again, carried out in the most luxe manner. Every look in the show felt as if it had been designed to be noticed, nothing was reserved, this was in your face luxury. 


If there was one critic to be made of this show it was that, with all of its prints and embellishments, it felt somewhat out of synch with what is going on in fashion right now.  But fans of the designer don’t go to her because she follows the fashion moods. Burch has built a fashion empire almost single handedly, so if she wants to create a collection that is entirely about decorative designs then good for her.

- Jessica Michault

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