A soldier's uniform is the genesis of the suit that we recognize today as the staple of a man's wardrobe. The suit/uniform has been the leitmotiv of this fall winter menswear season and in the case of Umit Benan, a subtle and fervent sensibility made an appearance as well. Maintaining that original military flair by enumerating heavy fabrics: wool, shetland, cashmere cloth, dyed yarn, and dry cotton matched with chromatic patterns of concentrated green, grey, black and saffon yellow, the young Turkish designer Benan made a compelling argument towards the continued refinement of wearable, rugged, formal, and finally wartime clothing.
The show used 15 distinct scenarios, each of which refracted an element of military tailoring to produce clothes that looked wearable for civilians: Safari jackets cut with maxi pockets on the front worn with trousers with side pockets. By reinventing shapes with an easygoing precision, Umit Benan works within codes: hybridizing his tailoring, side-slipping it, altering it. He never enters into a literal equation: no camouflage but instead an abstract chevron, no metal buttons. Everything from generously exaggerated volumes and conversely compact slim silhouettes rounded out this solid collection.