Review by Jessica Michault - Editor in Chief
The hits just keep on coming from the Valentino house. Designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli’s fall/winter 2013 collection was pitch perfect in its exploration of youthful innocence that was both serene and sophisticated at the same time.
The designers turned to the portraiture work of Flemish painters, their stark use of light and realistic portrayal of everyday life, as the starting point for this collection. A connection could easily be made between those artists and the designer’s own preference for more severe and covered up interpretations of beauty.
On the catwalk this could be seen from the first series of long sleeved A-line baby doll dresses with lace collars to the final black and white floor length evening gowns that shimmered with black beading and came embellished with white lace bib fronts.
In between those puritanical extremes the designers were a bit bolder in their approach. Short dresses showed up crafted out of rich tapestry fabrics or covered in brightly colored floral embroideries. Other relatively daring designs for a Valentino collection where dresses (the show subsisted primarily on dresses) with 3D scalloped edged sleeves and some exquisite blue and white print dresses inspired by Delft ceramics. One show stopping dress that deserved to be included in an haute couture collection reproduced that porcelain pattern by weaving yarns of different weights to create the intricate motif.
Every look was spot on in its combination of femininity, rigorous construction and unadulterated dedication to craft.
- Jessica Michault