Vera Wang Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2015 New York

Vera Wang once again returned to her happy place this season. No, not the universe of white wedding dresses that made her world-famous but rather her own more urban style. Street-inspired attire in her favorite color-black.

The looks that bookended the collection, the black crop double-breasted blazer worn with a long drawstring skirt that left the model's torso exposed that opened the show and a rich black velvet halter top paired with a matching skirt that featured a matte business suit waistband inserted at the hips, perfectly underlined the athletic masculinity at the core of this collection.

Wang also pulled back on embellishments — other than a smattering of silver sequined flowers that somehow looked butch rather than girly on the runway — and instead focused on construction. More specifically, the sleeves of each ensemble, which were the true focal point of the show.

She sliced out the shoulders of coats, playfully calling the effect "cold shoulder sleeves.” She spliced fisherman cable knit sleeves onto a Persian lambskin top. And inventively added some asymmetrical draping at the shoulder or elbow on the sleeves of a straightforward blazer, shift dress and cotton poplin men's shirt.

The shoulder story helped give this boyish collection a bit of much-needed depth. But even the designer's more traditional offerings, the maxi knit sweaters, the athletic drawstring jogging pants in faille, and all the long sleeveless column dresses, should easily find homes next season.

But the look that got the man/woman sporty/chic formula just right was an elegant bubble hemmed faille coat that featured buttery leather bonded sleeves, which appeared at the tail end of the show. It proved that Wang has a firm grip on how to handle the yin and yang of practical and poetic dress.