Veronique Branquinho Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2014 Paris
What sparked Veronique Branquinho’s creativity this season was a piece of Black Watch tartan. The Scottish regimental colors are, as she remarked backstage, far from being just black. Mixing beautiful green and navy into a dark palette, it became the basis for several of the Belgian designer’s elegant pieces. Many more elements from the land beyond Hadrien’s Wall would come across as well, from the very pretty opening Black Watch silhouette to the duffle-coat in eye-popping fluoro red, right down to the sequined imitation of Fair Isle patterns.
“It’s the story of a masculine wardrobe revisited for a woman, with many elements drawn from the English and Scottish tailoring,” she went on to say. As a soundtrack, Mauro Pawlowski, guitarist for hit Antwerp band dEUS, performed live as the models stepped down a runway of wooden planks painted black. Branquinho transcribed an incredible delicacy in a collection where femininity felt more like an attitude brought by the wearer rather than a constituting element of her clothing. It was a question of balance, between the inherently masculine and the beautifully feminine.
And indeed tailoring was paramount here, to create the perfect wardrobe: the perfectly tailored blazer, trousers falling with impeccable precision; in all things, the elegant togetherness of a coherent silhouette. But even so, there was daring; the knife pleats of a kilt could be read in the gauzy pleats of Lurex-infused fabrics which undulated around the legs and gave glimpses of the tailored slacks beneath. Branquinho is not without a form of humor in her garments: some side seams were even beautifully inside-out on full view. Along the back seam of discreetly flesh toned mesh tights, a plush line of cable knit crept up in pastel hues. But this was again balanced by the thick, padded opera length gloves that looked like they’d been repurposed from a racing track.
While these clothes aren’t in themselves a revolution, Branquinho’s designs are habit forming. After a dozen looks, there was the impression that editors had switched from taking notes to taking down their personal wish list for the season.
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