For her spring summer 2015 collection, the Belgian designer Veronique Branquinho mixed a couture spirit with a playtime dressmaking session, presenting well thought out designs in shimmering foils of pleated silvers and golds, combined with playful elements like a rope used as a belt, or feathers or bands of ruffles decorating the arms.
These pleated skirts, both long and short, as well as long white skirts that could have been made from draping sheets - long roomy skirts were big in this collection - were combined with simple camisole tops or more dressy creations that were varied and artful and did not really fit into any boxes. Think a series of silver panels connected to a pleated skirt that was paired with silver ruffled arm bands as well.
For a series of denim looks, the designer continued with the floor length skirts that looked like a girl coming in from the corn fields in old denim, paired with cover-all shirts or a revealing band of panels tied around the bust in a creative design, perhaps dreamt up at sewing class for a warm summer day.
Thoughtful little flourishes of material added here and there made the silhouettes hard to define and gave one the feeling that the designer was always one step ahead of the crowd without drawing too much attention to herself. It was as if she looked at it and used it, but did not leave tradition alone, and wanted to dress it up and subvert it.
Still, there was an innocence to the ideas in play and a cute simplicity to some of the twists, as if someone had worked by hand at the kitchen table crafting fun pieces from the decoration that lay around, or had worked with a sewing machine by night to send out a daughter in one-off outfits, or perfectly made suits with an edge and a thrill of a frill tucked beneath the surface.