Love – the good, the bad and the ugly – seems to have inspired two major Italian fashion houses this season, unconsciously putting them in a Baz Luhrmann-esque face-off: two households, both alike in dignity, in fair Milan where we lay our scene. Both brands left quite an impression, after showcasing their respective Spring/Summer 2018 menswear collections. Dolce & Gabbana, for their part, caused a stir with an influencer studded runway on the first day of the Milan menswear shows, while Versace made a statement by showcasing the latest collection at Gianni Versace's Milanese Palazzo. [Continue reading...]
by Stefano Roncato - MFFashion
Do you want to get into trouble? The tempting phrase that’s played on loop during the show. Dangerous, like the gaze of the Medusa facing out onto the garden in the heart of Milan. Because, for this latest show, Versace came home, amid a smattering of garden tables, all out in the open. A relaxed mood, a gathering of friends, but still a VIP party - obviously. From soft lines to heritage references, sporty accents and bling touches that were very Vegas. Very Bruno Mars, to name just one of the house’s friends. “Today it’s the millennials who are asking about our history, and it seemed right to remember what Gianni Versace built.” Donatella Versace explained to MFF. An exercise in pop-punk. Taking the archive, breaking it down and piecing it back together in a collage. Here was the easy-going interpretation of formal: fluid and comfortable. Versace prints reinvented, cut and put back together in asymmetric shapes, a mix of designs all on one shirt. The historic logo is back, embroidered onto rose pink or baby blue sweaters with matching trousers. Fluid shapes that pair perfectly with logo embossed high heeled sneakers. All finished off with crowns - which seem to be having a bit of a moment - embroidered on knitwear, on slippers, bags and hats, worn with precious jumpsuits and zip up sweatshirts, reflecting in the gold coloured lining.
INTERVIEW/Donatella Versace, a show that pays homage to Gianni
By Stefano Roncato - MFF Magazine for Fashion
Leggi l'articolo in italiano: http://bit.ly/mffashion82
What made you return to via Gesù?
I wanted to do something more intimate and personal. We all live through social media and this season I wanted a bit of human contact. In a couple of weeks it will be twenty years since my brother passed away, and I wanted to come home. I wanted to pay homage to him, coming back to show in via Gesù. Right now, it’s the millennials who are asking about our history and it seemed right to remember what Gianni created.
What elements did you focus on?
The show starts with the type of brilliant tailoring Gianni made, but updated. This is a collection that is fresh and full of passion, versatile and easy going. I paired it with a small capsule collection of womenswear, so that it could reference the menswear when it arrives in stores. I entrusted the soundtrack to Soulwax, two DJs that don’t only make electronic music, they also play with innovative elements. Do you want to get in trouble is the phrase that’s repeated obsessively in the soundtrack, brazenly confronting the looks in the show.
How has the role of the designer changed?
Fashion isn’t about what a designer shows anymore, it is what millennials and people on the street want, respecting your own identity. A designer used to show an idea on the runway and people would follow it, now it’s the other way around. Fashion today is a way of life, expressing our society through clothes.
Are the internet and millennials unavoidable?
Gianni died before the internet, think of how much things have changed. Today a designer only has power if they understand what consumers want, and the consumers today are millennials. Every designer should be more humble, and understand how to behave in this world. I am ready to discover youth culture.