A toned down Versace? Say it ain’t so! In a season when most of the fashion world is moving towards minimalism, even a house like Versace- known for its bold prints, second skin dresses and abundance of embellishments- has seen the signs.
This time Donatella Versace’s army of meme models, their hair ironed straight and their makeup precisely done, took to the catwalk in a legion of bias-cut dresses tricked out (rather reservedly for Versace) with shimmering epaulettes and rows of gilded buttons.
The designer’s decision to go with this particular type of construction, which she accentuated by juxtaposing silk and satin fabrics for a matte and shine tension, gave a movement to her slinky style that felt new. Also different for Versace was a surprising exploration of volume in a series of roomy A-line coats. But those pieces took a step too far away from the fitted and precision perfect cuts that are synonymous with the house.
When Versace moved into eveningwear those same bias dresses grew into gowns and were given the “on trend” feature of open seam work slicing diagonally along the garments. But the addition of an embroidered sash embellishment unfortunately brought to mind parochial beauty pageants rather then injecting the intended military rigor.
However, this restrained runway collection did clearly illustrate how Versace’s clothing can have real world relevance. A feat that has not always been so evident in her past endeavors. And for that reason alone the designer should be applauded.
Watch the show!