It's all about the optics these days. How fashion looks online, through the story-framing lens of social media platforms and industry websites (like this one) that transmit to the world in an instant both story-defining images and bite-sized critiques.
This season, Donatella Versace wanted to harness the power of the narrative and the lighting speed of the information highway with a collection that gave her house a next gen graphic dynamism. “This is my Versace for today, and forever. #GREEK symbolizes everything: the traditions of craftsmanship and the Greek key, the emoji of the future,” explained the designer in the collection’s show notes.
There were two key areas of focus for the new direction in which the designer wanted to take the brand. First off was the use of primary colors throughout the show. Fire engine red, canary yellow, emerald blue and stoplight green resonated strongly even in the most out-of-focus smart phone photos. So a pair of thigh-high patent leather green boots worn with a wide-belted black coat cut back at the front to leave the legs exposed, a yellow swing coat and matching stovepipe pant boots hybrids, and a vibrant Crayola-colored print in the brand’s hallmark graphic Greek key motif all had instant punch.
The other interesting takeaway was the amount of daywear on display in this show. The Versace-branded tops, the quilted grid-patterned outerwear and the pinstripe suiting all had real world potential. While at the same time they maintained a clear Versace sexy sartorial slant.
But the best of the bunch were the pieces that incorporated the sliced apart fabric idea that Versace used in her most recent haute couture collection. A suit with some judiciously placed slashes had a frisson of drama to it. While a short green dress, followed by one in yellow, looked almost sweet with a segmented design worked into their backs.
The only place where this show lost its connection was with its final six looks. When it appeared as if the show had gotten a verbiage Versace virus. The signature name appearing broken up and blended with @ and # symbols constructed out of colorful sequins across each of the black ensembles.
Those pieces did not compute as well as the rest of this web-based collection.