"This is about a fresh new Versace, one that is contemporary, clean and strong. It is the way women wear Versace now, and in the future,” said Donatella Versace about her spring/summer 2015 offering for the Versace woman. But she could just as easily have said that the brand’s the newly-opened store in the heart of the famous Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan had her thinking about the purity of form and the beauty of architectural shapes.
For within the sexy, highly-charged world of Versace, this collection was much more controlled and reserved, and therefore impactful on the house. There was also a clear correlation to the work she created with Anthony Vaccarello for the Versus line she showed in New York two weeks ago.
Stripping back never looked so good.
The designer went with sleek, slim shapes and used graphic details like silver grommet holes, contrasting top stitching, laser cut leathers and Versace’s iconic interlinking Greek key motif to give the asymmetrical sliced away skirts and crop tops a sporty minimalist sex appeal.
The brief appearance of geometric, patterned knitwear left the audience longing for more. Color-block cocktail dresses, broken up by swathes of diagonal bands of colored cloth looked thoroughly modern and yet still very much Versace. The same could be said for the shimmering crystal mesh bandaeau evening dresses that used sheer organza to delineate the different shades, and created the sense that the dresses were somehow hovering over the models' bodies.
This collection was a strong step forward for the brand. Versace's minimal made for a maximal success on Friday night.