"We are fashion people," Carolyn Murphy said, a talking head of sorts giving a short PSA before the VFILES Made Fashion 3 presentation. “We create the next big thing." And indeed VFILES has intended to. In the last few years the company has gone from just a hypebeast haunt for all of the essentials in "streetwear" gear -- a term that in this day and age means little-- to a name that strives to be a discoverer of talent, introducing the likes of Rihanna, Dover Street Market and Opening Ceremony to new designers through their Made Fashion program.
“Fashion is a team sport" Murphy continued, a point driven home by the likes of V's Stephen Gan, Diesel's Nicola Formichetti and Calvin Klein's Italo Zucchelli, all in the audience. “Welcome to the newest members of our team; we are VFILES."
"That was cool," someone yelled in the brief pause after the Moscow-based designer took his bow and, indeed, it was "cool." A cool similar to Raf Simmons, brimming with graphically colored, loose silhouettes drawing inspirations from five fragrances purchased from duty-free airport outposts (now you know who to thank for those "pour homme" and "duty free" logos splashed across fluttering tanks and slouchy trousers). Skin flashing slits up the leg, drawstrings on jackets, unisex vibes and a smattering of plastic shopping bags pushed the designer so far into Simons' defined lane that we're sure this Central Saint Martin's graduate could get a job working at the label
Slits up the sides of shorts continued here, made modest as they were layered atop longer trousers sans the revealing cut. But that's about where the similarities end between HyeGin Hamm's collection and Avestiyan's. Made completely out of hand washed denim -- well there was one bomber tied around a waist that looked like nylon -- the collection came done in mostly mono chromatics with boxy silhouettes that hung off of the body. Workwear inspirations nestled their way inside of worker’s coats and classic denim jackets, likely by way of America while the designer's Korea heritage was there in the styling, layering pieces atop each other for long, sweeping lines.
Color was back in a sporty way at the ZDDZ all womenswear line-up. Designer Dasha Selyanova played with typography infusing words like “Platinum,” “Quiet Life,” and “Open as Usual” into her designs. Those designs came in a palette of mostly metallic, red and blue (the colors even showed up spray painted into the backs of the models’ hair) climbing all the way up the neck but generally stopping around the top of the shin. This modern take on the high-school uniform saw the Londoner churn out leggings, on trend crop tops, visors and even a stand-out fluttering trench coat.
Closing out the night was likely one of the most out there of the newest members of team VFILES. In fact, the last look — a full length, sleeveless white shift dress, with a slit up the side, put on a muscled male model — was definitely the most “out there.” And yes, indeed, there was a slightly gimmicky chest guard to give it a more masculine, sporty vibe — full disclosure, the designer uses sports as an ongoing reference point for his collections — but the designs seemed more wearable when confined to pieces like a white hoodie, with white and green detailing and oversized jorts, or even a pair of high-waisted trousers.