On London’s Dover Street, the Victoria Beckham store boasts a window full of excitement, proudly announcing: “Luxury performance, clean beauty” – Victoria Beckham’s much-anticipated new beauty range, Victoria Beckham Beauty, which officially launched in London this weekend over London Fashion Week, the day before her own show.
We sat down to posters promoting it – Instagram has, of course, been all abuzz about its launch, not least Victoria herself who can be seen on her page talking to her followers, dressed in a VB-embroidered white lab coat and whispering, “I can’t wait!”
“It really is about empowering women through fashion and beauty,” she further explains on her website of the project that has been some five years in the making. It was a decade ago that she launched her eponymous fashion label, showing in New York where she would at the time talk through her collections to small numbers of press and buyers. Today she has a burgeoning empire.
It was following a meeting with her co-founder and CEO, Sarah Creal, that the former Spice Girl felt the time was right to enter the beauty market, “clean beauty” specifically. The collection initially focuses on eyes, which Beckham has said is a personal signature. The packaging, it’s noted, is as sustainable as possible while the products themselves are environmentally friendly, and aimed very much at women who, like herself, lead busy lives.
That same sentiment could be seen – appropriately – in the Spring/Summer 2020 ready-to-wear collection this season. “There is always a duality in women, moving between different ideas, different moods. I want clothes that move with a woman, that move with her life,” she wrote in the notes.
She did that with bouncy dresses that were defined less by their shape but by their punchy colours, corsages, and ruffle decorations that spilt around them for a sophisticated and elegant take on Bohemia. It was very civilised for lots of layered tailoring, which potentially you’d expect to see more during the Autumn/Winter season – shirts and skirts with chain belts, Seventies-into-Margaret Thatcher territory. But pussy bows were replaced by blooms. It was a mix of soft and romantic in those dresses and the more masculine coats and jackets. A duality.
“We took a melting pot of references and inspiration from past decades, then looked to our brand DNA and put everything together in a blender to make a new modern mix,” she explained in her notes. One that obviously lends itself perfectly to a touch of Victoria Beckham Beauty.
There were nods to vintage YSL in a white tuxedo and in-keeping with a new-found mood set by Hedi Slimane for his last Celine collection that referenced the French bourgeois, Beckham too is hedging her bets on a new style of smart dressing as we enter into the 2020s.
And on the beauty front, Beckham appears to be hedging her bets on an upswing against all odds. Among the latest findings in some of the most recent beauty market numbers, despite what looks like a sudden surge for new beauty products, selling out supposedly instantly, the reality is not quite the same – apparently women are wearing less makeup and have less time to think about it. Let’s see if Beckham can change their minds.