Victoria Beckham Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 New York

The grand New York Public Library, with its stately walls and soaring entrance ceiling, served as a fitting backdrop to Victoria Beckham’s fall collection—one that combined enhanced volumes with new levels of restrained outlines that, as Beckham said, “allowed me to push my silhouette even further.”

As the models walked in a fastidious motion through a square formation on a custom-laid oak wood floor, eschewing the traditional long runway of seasons past, their black Manolo Blahnik low ankle booties grounded each look. Beckham said that her starting points were reflection, texture and simplicity. Ease of wear has been a consistent hallmark of the label since day one; for fall, thinking of a “mannish modernity,” she introduced lovely knitwear separates (a belted peplum top was darling, as well a ponyhair turtleneck) alongside Savile Row-quality masculine fabricslike tweed, plaid and herringbone in a nod to her British heritage. “I tried to stay true to the essence of my line while incorporating new finishes and fabrics,” she said, alluding to the maxi trousers paired with keyhole tops.

As her models, sporting slick ponytails, strode out, the pronounced rounded shoulders, with their generous proportions through the armholes, cast a new silhouette for the Victoria Beckham woman. Aside from one or two simply draped coat dresses, effortlessly wrapped and tied at the waist, the collection was a case study in elegant designs cast in sturdy shades of grey, black and winter white and punctuated by bright blocks of violet, yellow and blue that beautifully picked up the whisper of colors in her masculine fabrics and on geometric patterns. Her evening tuxedo blazer cape, with its illusion sleeves, was at once sexy and restrained.

- Jim Shi