The huge full moon in the background, the melodic music, and the pajama-inspired looks reminded us of the night, and as the fur-trimmed lingerie-inspired dresses came out, we were tempted to imagine that this collection was about eveningwear more than anything else. But then there were the pieces workable for day or night- pleated skirts, swingy cape-like double-breasted coats, and a tuxedo-cum-vest-inspired jacket with loose sleeves that became large and pleated at the wrists. The jackets reminded us of some of Viktor&Rolf’s larger silhouettes over the years, just a tiny hint; from the duo’s collection with a pillow attached to the head this collection, there were volumes of what’s been shaved off, tapered, lessened. There were no double or triple collars, painted faces, nor elaborate thought-inducing layers. What this collection had were soft pleats- like petals of a flower opening wide at the hips of languid pants, or as ruffled trim on the hips of a sheer evening dress.
Dresses were sexy, like fur-trimmed babydolls that had been glammed up and lengthened for evening- by the sheer sheerness of fabric and strategic placement of fur in lines down the torso or diagonally across the body. You got an eyeful by looking up and down or left to right. The duo’s artistic inclinations (and heritage) were also apparent on delicious fur coats with deep indents where it looked like a lawn mower had passed through (some very thick fur). A black coat that was topped to the mid-arm with cropped black fur that looked more chopped through than cut.
Some accessories were gleaming: a red-and-black print on a file-holding, patent leather tote was like the models’ shiny lipstick; boots were equally vampire-blood red. There were fun, fur-trimmed heels, like a bit of Christmas at the feet. Tinsel-like, thorn-like details and fringe, accented some dresses. We couldn’t quite make out what it meant in the context of a full moon, nor was it in any case particularly important to discover- we’d been lulled enough to a beautous place.
-Ria de Borja